Tag Archives: winter

Winter dream in the Arctic: nordlys (Northern Lights)

Wow to start a story about a childhood dream you didn’t thought was possible? Thinking about it right now, how it started and how I pursued trying to fulfil it makes me instantly lose myself in reverie, smiling, eyes wide opened.

I was 4-5 years old when my mother was playing for me stories on film strips on the white door of my bedroom. During the long winter evenings there was not much entertainment.  And how I loved stories! We could play one story per evening cause the machine was getting very hot while in use. Thus, each evening I was carefully picking the one. And there was one I liked in particular: about a polar bear living in a circus in Europe and dreaming about the cold dark polar nights, the icebergs and that Arctic wonder: the northern lights and how he used to watch their show while being a cub, in the North Pole. Like a fire on the dark night’s sky, they were described in my childhood story. This very memory stayed with me ever since. I was fascinated.

So here I was in Norway! My evening flight from Bergen to Oslo was delayed due to difficult weather conditions. After 4 hours in the airport we landed an a strong blizzard in Oslo. I went back to the same hostel I used when I first arrive in Oslo, three days before, close to Central Station. Next morning I was having my flight to the no1 destination of my trip: Tromso, at the Arctic Circle, in Northern Norway. A place I’ve read about after my last year’s trip to Iceland, famous for its perfect display of the northern lights but not only.

Although I dreamt since I was a child to get the chance to admire the northern lights, now I was surprisingly relaxed about it. And that’s because I knew I won’t stop until I will see them, even if I had to move to the North Pole for a whole month in winter. And I was excited about other plans I had already and the previous days which were amazing too. But, still, an itch was there… I was terribly curious: about how’s gonna be, what will happen, will I see the lights or not. So I checked one more time both the weather forecast and the northern lights prediction website. I was doing so for the past month, obsessively during the last week. And miraculously, the not so very good predictions have turned now, out of the blue, into very good chances. Was past midnight, I was alone in my room, the street lights were lighting the room with an orange shade and I was so excited I could barely fall asleep, though I was exhausted.

Next morning at 11:35 I was in the plane, took my window seat and right before departure I got my 7 hours northern lights hunting tour booked.

At 13:30, flying over the frozen fiords with superb white mountains and dark blue water from the ocean, I was witnessing one of the most spectacular sunsets and my  northernmost so far. Imagine as far as sight you could reach, the view painted in 3 shades: white, blue and orange. Land, water and sun. Than we flew over Tromso for minutes, getting a perfect aerial view of the city I wanted so much and for so long to visit. Couldn’t believe my eyes: I was in Tromso! What an amazing welcome!

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I was expecting cold, it’s not like you go to Northern Norway in January and you’re surprised by the cold temperatures. But this was arctic cold: -8′ C and windy. The windows from the passage reaching the airport were entirely covered with a gorgeous ice lace. This got me even more excited: Tromso, baby, here I am, ready to be amazed! Let it be cold! Let it be clear sky, full of stars and the darkest of nights. And let me catch them, the northern lights!

I had 5 hours to get to my Airbnb accommodation, to get to know the city a little and prepare for the 7 hours tour: hunting the northern lights.

 

 

How to enjoy the rainiest day in Bergen

“Did you had a rainy day in Bergen?” It’s what a friend who used to live in Oslo asked me when I came back home. It’s seems that’s natural for this region. Yes, I answered. Smiling.

Just close your eyes and imagine: it’s January, you woke up in a small room at your accommodation in Bergen where you took only one night, it’s warm and you’re lazy, outside is raining and you hear the big drops punching the window. But you need to shower in a freezing bathroom, pack your baggage and leave the place. The flight to Oslo is in the evening. And this lucky one was me…

What did I do? Stay indoors, make a few long calls home, order some food and took a nap. Kidding!!!

I survived the freezing bathroom, let my baggage there and went out. The rain was bearable, with episodes, it wasn’t cold at all. I was in another beautiful place, had a few hours to get to know the city better that I did the previous evening.

I went back to Bryggen to see it in day light too. No wonder is on UNESCO list of heritages since 1979. It’s a line of old colourful wooden buildings facing the port, with small shops selling Norwegian products and restaurants inside.

 

I took the first street at the left and started to go up. It’s so simple with towns built by the water, you can’t get lost.

Soon the small white houses on little streets appeared again and I stopped in front of many of them to admire the simple beauty.

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But I was on a mission, walking in the rain: to get the best top view of the city, on Floyen, 300m up. And since the cable car is not for me, I decided to walk all the way up. And I had the best views of the city, the harbour and  the red roofs, Things got complicated with the rain that was stronger now and even more complicated when I realised on that weather I cat’t walk further. I was ready to give up and started to descent when I finally found the last stop of the cable car. And so I got to see the gorgeous panorama of Bergen, with the fiords visible in the horizon, the hills, the houses and the dark grey water mixing the light blue-green one. Although it was not that high, at one point I almost got pushed down by the very intense wind.

I could’t take my eyes from that breathtaking view, every detail of it was an entire painting.

The cable car let me after right in the city centre, back to concrete and traffic. And on my way to the best meal I had during my 8 days in Norway. The moment I got to the restaurant I have read about I was freezing, my coat was all wet and I felt tired. I hat meatballs with mashed peas, potatoes, carrots and some cranberries. De-li-cious! I took a place in front of the window for some street watching.

The last hour I spent it to say goodby to those adorable white wooden houses, the small empty streets while the dark was covering the city. It’s funny that today I saw a top of the most romantic places in Europe still untouched by the frenetic tourism. Bergen was number one. All I can say it that I’m happy I got to know it a little bit like that, serene, rainy and beautiful. I love it!

 

Norway’s secret beauty: Bergen

The train journey from Oslo to Bergen took 7 hours. But what a journey it was! 7 hours through winter wonderland where I saw some of the most beautiful winter landscapes. We left behind the frozen lakes and mountain rivers, the so many small red coloured Norwegian houses, all covered up with snow blankets, the dark blizzard, the deep fir woods… hmmm that scent! Than the majestic valleys and fiords with black water and coloured wooden houses on each shore.  The train was right in time although at some points the snow was huge, but these guys seem to speak winter’s language and are dealing perfectly with the harshest winter conditions.

Bergen, the second largest city in Norway looked ready to welcome me and myself I was definitely ready to discover one of my beautiful places.

I walked from the train station to my reservation. I usually get something right in the centre cause it’s practical, fast and safe, since I enjoy taking late night walks alone.

And here I was, ready to be lost in another unknown city, to walk its streets without a destination or limit of time, to stop and enjoy any view, house, window or shop I’d like, as long as I like. Sounds like freedom, right?

I have read before coming to Bergen about the beautiful old white houses made of wood where fishermen lived in the old times. But now I was delighted to see them. In the evening light, on the empty streets this city looked exactly like a gingerbread town and it was entirely mine.

I couldn’t the first decide weather it was more beautiful in day light or by night.

I needed a daylight top view of the city to help me decide. Top views are something I love  deeply and the next day, on a rainy day, I was heading to a breathtaking view on top of Bergen.

to be continued tomorrow

Oslo to Bergen: a magical train journey in winter wonderland

Here I was, finally in Oslo! I took a deep breath of cold winter air once I was out of the hostel, around 8 PM, determined to discover some winter wonderland spots in the city. But surprisingly, none. It seemed the fairytale winter, with creamy snow and perfect white views was left outside the city. Little I knew than that I was going to meet Her again, in fool splendour, the very next day.

I found out days after that Gronland, the region of the city I crossed that evening, is not the safest, this in one of the safest cities in the world. I’ve noticed many emigrants there but felt no unsafe sensation. Plus, I found a small store opened, in the corner of one street, at that late hour, and thanks to someone willing to get a better life in another country and ready to work late for this, I bought my breakfast for next morning. A good deal also, compared with the earlier street food dinner: hot dog and a small bottle of water for 10 euro. But didn’t we all heard already that Norway is not cheap. And I’m a hot dog fan.

Still, really cheap was my train ticket for next morning to Bergen: 20 euro, bought online, 3 weeks in advance. Prices can be even 4 times higher. I read about this route only after I bought my plane tickets for Oslo and had all planned, no chance to get there in the 5 days of the initial journey plan. But then, lucky me, I got an email announcing me that my inbound flight to Oslo was canceled, and so I could get another ticket, 3 days earlier than the initial plan. And so, here I was on the train from Oslo to Bergen, on one of the most beautiful railway in the world, as it’s known. And I can assure you it’s even more beautiful than you can imagine. For me it was like that.

The moment we started letting the city behind us, there it was again, the fairytales winter that had amazed me the previous evening, on the way from the airport. Except now, it seemed even more determined to make me say WOOW constantly and transform the summer lover that I strongly am into a white winter addict. The best description for this journey is this: A 7 hours journey through Narnia that I will remember all my life. All was white! From vast fields with fir woods horizons or simply deep fir forests where deers were running freely and wild animals tracks were constantly visible in the snow, to high mountains, than again steep valleys, than even more amazing fiords, frozen lakes to partially frozen mountain rivers with turquoise shades.

This was nature at its best and I couldn’t believe my eyes. There it was the winter I remembered from my childhood, when snow was as high as I was back than, at the margin of the street right in front of our building. So Norway was the place winter was hiding in all this time. I was so glad I found it. No words can do justice to this beautiful journey:

In Finse, at 1200m the snow was huge, covering the entrance of the hotels we passed by. Still, no one seemed worried, tourist were carrying their skis, a man was walking the dog through an alley among snow, the train station workers were doing their job. And it was a blizzard outside. At -8 degrees, this winter was showing big plans till late spring and I liked how people were used to its caprices and let it snow.

The 7 hours were almost finished but I so didn’t wanted this trip to end. Starting the last half of the journey I was often looking at my tracker’s watch to see how much time was left to enjoy this.

I wonder now how these landscapes look in spring, or summer. But I am convinced during winter they are at their best.

After Dale we started to descent, the valleys were smaller but the fiords show up, the temperature outside rose, the snow was smaller and smaller and in my mind I wave my hand to Lady Winter, we have left her behind again. But we were already charmed.

To be continued, hopefully tomorrow but no promises 🙂

How I fell in love with Norway: Hello Oslo!

It’s almost midnight and I’m sitting in my living room, with a glass of icy red wine on the wooden empty floor and a lighted vanilla candle. It’s warm and it’s cosy, but I’ll rather be far away right now. Google Map says 4.322 km. In Northern Norway.

A friend whom I talked with today and who has lived there for two years, said to me: You feel as if you’re still there. I know, she said, it’s like that for a while.

In September I booked my flight to Oslo. I started planning the trip: hotel, hostel, Airbnb, train tickets, other plane tickets and of course a lot of google search about that to do in Norway in January. In October my inbound flight got canceled. What a great news, cause the research I have made me soon realise the initial 5 days plan was not enough. So here I was in November, with an all planned trip of 8 days to Norway, and a hidden wish in my heart.

Two weeks before living I was already obsessed with checking the weather forecast in all three locations I was going: Oslo, Bergen and Tromso. Every hour, on three websites. I know, this can’t be ok 🙂

It took me 2 days to prepare the luggage. Try to have clean clothes every day, for 8 days, in January, in Norway, and you got yourself a real challenge.

And in a glimpse I was flying to Oslo, where a beautiful winter in the city was waiting to amaze me. Since back home we had the warmest winter I can so far remember, there it was winter wonderland, as if all the snow didn’t want to go to other places too. If course I took the bus to city centre instead of the 20 minutes train, so I can get as excited as I pleased while seeing the nature looking fabulous in white.

I got to the city centre, found my hostel for that night and went out for a 2h walk in the snow.

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Lovely winter in Oslo

 

 

to be continued tomorrow 🙂