Tag Archives: Bergen

How to enjoy the rainiest day in Bergen

“Did you had a rainy day in Bergen?” It’s what a friend who used to live in Oslo asked me when I came back home. It’s seems that’s natural for this region. Yes, I answered. Smiling.

Just close your eyes and imagine: it’s January, you woke up in a small room at your accommodation in Bergen where you took only one night, it’s warm and you’re lazy, outside is raining and you hear the big drops punching the window. But you need to shower in a freezing bathroom, pack your baggage and leave the place. The flight to Oslo is in the evening. And this lucky one was me…

What did I do? Stay indoors, make a few long calls home, order some food and took a nap. Kidding!!!

I survived the freezing bathroom, let my baggage there and went out. The rain was bearable, with episodes, it wasn’t cold at all. I was in another beautiful place, had a few hours to get to know the city better that I did the previous evening.

I went back to Bryggen to see it in day light too. No wonder is on UNESCO list of heritages since 1979. It’s a line of old colourful wooden buildings facing the port, with small shops selling Norwegian products and restaurants inside.

 

I took the first street at the left and started to go up. It’s so simple with towns built by the water, you can’t get lost.

Soon the small white houses on little streets appeared again and I stopped in front of many of them to admire the simple beauty.

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But I was on a mission, walking in the rain: to get the best top view of the city, on Floyen, 300m up. And since the cable car is not for me, I decided to walk all the way up. And I had the best views of the city, the harbour and  the red roofs, Things got complicated with the rain that was stronger now and even more complicated when I realised on that weather I cat’t walk further. I was ready to give up and started to descent when I finally found the last stop of the cable car. And so I got to see the gorgeous panorama of Bergen, with the fiords visible in the horizon, the hills, the houses and the dark grey water mixing the light blue-green one. Although it was not that high, at one point I almost got pushed down by the very intense wind.

I could’t take my eyes from that breathtaking view, every detail of it was an entire painting.

The cable car let me after right in the city centre, back to concrete and traffic. And on my way to the best meal I had during my 8 days in Norway. The moment I got to the restaurant I have read about I was freezing, my coat was all wet and I felt tired. I hat meatballs with mashed peas, potatoes, carrots and some cranberries. De-li-cious! I took a place in front of the window for some street watching.

The last hour I spent it to say goodby to those adorable white wooden houses, the small empty streets while the dark was covering the city. It’s funny that today I saw a top of the most romantic places in Europe still untouched by the frenetic tourism. Bergen was number one. All I can say it that I’m happy I got to know it a little bit like that, serene, rainy and beautiful. I love it!

 

Norway’s secret beauty: Bergen

The train journey from Oslo to Bergen took 7 hours. But what a journey it was! 7 hours through winter wonderland where I saw some of the most beautiful winter landscapes. We left behind the frozen lakes and mountain rivers, the so many small red coloured Norwegian houses, all covered up with snow blankets, the dark blizzard, the deep fir woods… hmmm that scent! Than the majestic valleys and fiords with black water and coloured wooden houses on each shore.  The train was right in time although at some points the snow was huge, but these guys seem to speak winter’s language and are dealing perfectly with the harshest winter conditions.

Bergen, the second largest city in Norway looked ready to welcome me and myself I was definitely ready to discover one of my beautiful places.

I walked from the train station to my reservation. I usually get something right in the centre cause it’s practical, fast and safe, since I enjoy taking late night walks alone.

And here I was, ready to be lost in another unknown city, to walk its streets without a destination or limit of time, to stop and enjoy any view, house, window or shop I’d like, as long as I like. Sounds like freedom, right?

I have read before coming to Bergen about the beautiful old white houses made of wood where fishermen lived in the old times. But now I was delighted to see them. In the evening light, on the empty streets this city looked exactly like a gingerbread town and it was entirely mine.

I couldn’t the first decide weather it was more beautiful in day light or by night.

I needed a daylight top view of the city to help me decide. Top views are something I love  deeply and the next day, on a rainy day, I was heading to a breathtaking view on top of Bergen.

to be continued tomorrow

Oslo to Bergen: a magical train journey in winter wonderland

Here I was, finally in Oslo! I took a deep breath of cold winter air once I was out of the hostel, around 8 PM, determined to discover some winter wonderland spots in the city. But surprisingly, none. It seemed the fairytale winter, with creamy snow and perfect white views was left outside the city. Little I knew than that I was going to meet Her again, in fool splendour, the very next day.

I found out days after that Gronland, the region of the city I crossed that evening, is not the safest, this in one of the safest cities in the world. I’ve noticed many emigrants there but felt no unsafe sensation. Plus, I found a small store opened, in the corner of one street, at that late hour, and thanks to someone willing to get a better life in another country and ready to work late for this, I bought my breakfast for next morning. A good deal also, compared with the earlier street food dinner: hot dog and a small bottle of water for 10 euro. But didn’t we all heard already that Norway is not cheap. And I’m a hot dog fan.

Still, really cheap was my train ticket for next morning to Bergen: 20 euro, bought online, 3 weeks in advance. Prices can be even 4 times higher. I read about this route only after I bought my plane tickets for Oslo and had all planned, no chance to get there in the 5 days of the initial journey plan. But then, lucky me, I got an email announcing me that my inbound flight to Oslo was canceled, and so I could get another ticket, 3 days earlier than the initial plan. And so, here I was on the train from Oslo to Bergen, on one of the most beautiful railway in the world, as it’s known. And I can assure you it’s even more beautiful than you can imagine. For me it was like that.

The moment we started letting the city behind us, there it was again, the fairytales winter that had amazed me the previous evening, on the way from the airport. Except now, it seemed even more determined to make me say WOOW constantly and transform the summer lover that I strongly am into a white winter addict. The best description for this journey is this: A 7 hours journey through Narnia that I will remember all my life. All was white! From vast fields with fir woods horizons or simply deep fir forests where deers were running freely and wild animals tracks were constantly visible in the snow, to high mountains, than again steep valleys, than even more amazing fiords, frozen lakes to partially frozen mountain rivers with turquoise shades.

This was nature at its best and I couldn’t believe my eyes. There it was the winter I remembered from my childhood, when snow was as high as I was back than, at the margin of the street right in front of our building. So Norway was the place winter was hiding in all this time. I was so glad I found it. No words can do justice to this beautiful journey:

In Finse, at 1200m the snow was huge, covering the entrance of the hotels we passed by. Still, no one seemed worried, tourist were carrying their skis, a man was walking the dog through an alley among snow, the train station workers were doing their job. And it was a blizzard outside. At -8 degrees, this winter was showing big plans till late spring and I liked how people were used to its caprices and let it snow.

The 7 hours were almost finished but I so didn’t wanted this trip to end. Starting the last half of the journey I was often looking at my tracker’s watch to see how much time was left to enjoy this.

I wonder now how these landscapes look in spring, or summer. But I am convinced during winter they are at their best.

After Dale we started to descent, the valleys were smaller but the fiords show up, the temperature outside rose, the snow was smaller and smaller and in my mind I wave my hand to Lady Winter, we have left her behind again. But we were already charmed.

To be continued, hopefully tomorrow but no promises 🙂