Tag Archives: female solo traveler

Kenya: Best time in Diani Beach

15 January 2024 My Beautiful Places 2 Comments

Back to writing down memories…

I got so much to say about these last 2 years that I kept postponing the moment when I let all the words that are now wrapping memories to finally lay down on white.

Trips during the pandemic, trips after the pandemic and the multiple levels of chaos that followed. The bonanza of traveling in 2016-2019, those golden years, are sweet memories. Many things have changed. We all have changed. But even if The World is going nuts with every day, the pleasure of seeing new and beautiful places remains.

I should just restart from where I stopped: Kenya, Diani Beach, September 2019…

Ocean safari on Diani Beach, Kenya

The sea spider flipped over in his palm. Was huge, covering his whole palm.

– See, this means the water will come back soon, the fishermen know this sign…My father taught me…

I was so distracted by all the creatures that can be seen while walking on the bottom of the ocean during the low tide, 50-60 meters far from the shore. All sizes of octopus, one stone fish, a few star fish, sea cucumbers, plenty of crabs, huge sea urchins, all got trapped in small water wholes, now hiding between rocks, prisoners of the low tide, all waiting for the rescue brought by the high tide waters.

I heard like in a dream my occasional guide, a guy I just met earlier on the beach and who suggested to have an “ocean safari”- a walk on the bottom of the Indian Ocean that was only possible in the mornings there, during low tide. He proposed to help me discover a lot of marine creatures that “you never saw in your life” and were now so easy to spot… And indeed, the one hour walk was fantastic…

– Ok, I leave now, don’t stay long. Don’t staaay loooong….

His voice vanished in the sound of the waves hitting the reef, a new shore created by the low tide, about 20m in the front. The beach was far, a white line on the opposite side.

– I won’t… I reply automatically and I continued my exploration of small water wholes hiding living wonders of the ocean. I was fascinated.

I was walking on the bottom of the ocean, on white sand covered by sea grass, with stripes drawn by the waves. It felt unreal.

Diani Beach, star fish — Diani Beach, Kenya. The 1st and last time I will ever touch a start fish

I wanted to take a video. I started from the horizon line of the waves and all the way around the reef, my new playground and finally pointed the camera towards the shore. I stopped suddenly. I thought I’m not seeing well. Water was coming. Was filling rapidly like a violent river the space between the area where I was and the beach, leaving me stranded on a small island that was disappearing with every second. First thought was of total panic. I had my phone, so swimming was not an option. My photos…Even if I had to swim, ocean currents away from the shore, at high tide, are strong.

I started running towards the shore that seemed so far now. In a few meters my feet were in the water, and the level was growing with every step. I was surrounded instantly, a river of currents reached me and I hold my phone in one hand up in the air. I was afraid and crazy scenarios got to my mind…

All my photos, the safari, the night safari, the flamingoes, the lions…all Kenya. My precious memories! I looked around and I was all alone. Then it hit me: what if I’m drowning!

I thought that if I’ll soon be forced to swim, as water will be way to deep to continue to walk, I’ll carry the phone in my mouth. Or fix it in my hair bun. Desperate people have desperate ideas… Water was getting deeper and deeper and stronger, I used one hand to keep balance. I was wearing flip flops and ran on rocks filled with sea urchins as water now reached my chest…

The day before, Amboseli Park

Kilimanjaro white peak rising high above the golden savannah that morning was an unforgettable sight. After 9am it was already gone behind the clouds. I washed my hair after that crazy safari the night before. I understood how dusty that ride was when I saw our van, in the morning. It was completely covered in a thick layer of beige powder, outside and inside. Richard our driver was struggling to clean it.

The car was repaired, cleaned to a decent level and off we were to a new safari day. Amboseli looked different from Mara, greener. Even the wildebeests look different, with darker shades of brown and quite fat.

The playground for all breathing wildlife in Amboseli was a widespread swamp. All creatures gathered there. Us included.

At noon we had our box lunch on a high point offering fantastic top views on the park.

When we left, we drove by a woman riding a jeep. She stopped and talked to Richard, our driver.

– I know everybody. He turned to us, smiling, as this was my line every time we met someone and he always proved to know each person. She was a conservationist involved in projects protecting elephants and rhinos. The news were good: they are now thriving in Amboseli, protected by poachers while photographed by thousands of tourists.

We saw a cheetah enjoying his meal, an unfortunate impala. Richard was intrigued how come we’ve missed it when we first passed by that bush he was hiding in and how come my eyesight that proved to be great for the last 7 days of safari have failed us this time.

– You didn’t see it! How come! It was there…

We then watched it getting up from the “crime scene” with a round belly and slow moves, passing by a heard of impalas that were all watching it carefully. They all saw he had a meal so no chase for the next 4-5 days.

A male elephant with huge tusks was enjoying an afternoon spa time, throwing dust on its back, creating a fantastic sight. He came very close to us, moving its huge ears. Richard wanted to start the engine but in the end there were no signs of aggression and we remained. It’s amazing how Richard knows their body language. After a few minutes, the elephant left, heading towards a young male in the horizon.

We left and after a few minutes drive in the hot dusty afternoon, Richard stopped the van. I knew why, I saw them too. One of the Chinese women in the van asked why we stopped. Richard just raised his hand, pointing his finger to the horizon.

In a cloud of dust and hot air from the midday heat, grey silhouettes were moving towards us. The long line was crossing the savannah. We waited. They approached keeping the rhythm. 24 elephants, mothers and babies lead by the matriarch, the oldest and most experienced one. Absolute silence… What a bliss to see that! Slowly they crossed the road a few meters from us and headed towards… of course, that swamp. Bath time. This was one of the most impressive scene I’ve witnessed in Africa.

Back to Diani Beach

With my heart beating and my mind filled with dramatic scenarios, running towards the shore in chest deep water, stepping on rocks, on sand, trying to avoid the black areas – sea urchins. I saw on my right a fisherman with a few octopus in his hand. Earlier it was another trying to get one from behind a rock. He was using a long needle, keep pushing is under the rock as the poor octopus covered his hand with its tentacles and finally vanished under the rock. I was happy. I love them too much to see them as food.

I saw people on the beach. I don’t think they saw how desperate I was. A few more steps and the water started to decrease. I was reaching the shore, the currents were still strong but as they now reached my knees, I jumped on the sand. I was ok. My phone was ok, even if all my clothes were drenched and water was flowing from me.

I got back to the resort where I had breakfast that morning. I was so relieved I was ok, back on land. The ocean was now conquering the last surface of the island formed during the tide. So, all the creatures were safe now.

I felt an itch as I was checking the level of damage on my wet wallet. I was all red. I left the restaurant without having any sunscreen on. Almost two hours in the open sun got me badly sun burnt.

The next day I took a tour to Wasini island. We visited a local village, we got on bord of an Arabic dhow and cruise to Kisite Marine Park. We met dolphins on the way. I did some snorkeling. I never saw corals that big, 1-2m wide. I was looking for a clown fish: Nemo. That was my quest but I didn’t manage to see one though I did saw anemonas, the algae where they live.

On the way back the people in the boat sang and danced African music. Our guide was great and funny, trying to make me and a guy from South Africa realize we were in love.

We had a delicious lunch on the island: fresh fish, coconut rice (best rice in my life up till now) and casava. I had an obsession to this new dish for me, casava and the guide brought me a whole plate.

– Should I pick you up later? Let’s go out!

Jaffa, my driver to the tour came with this proposal. I gave him my number.

7:30PM

Going out with a guy I barely knew, in Diani Beach, a place known for being unsafe, where tourists kidnappings happened and small crime was the norm… I didn’t know what to do, to go or stay inside, safe, but miss a night out… when I got the text message: I’m outside.

A few minutes later the gates opened. The resort was surrounded by a 3m tall wall and the entrance had 24h armed guardians that were checking every entrance and exit.

I left the resort for a night out in Diani beach with my new friend Jaffa. I was stressed.

We first went to a beach bar, I got a dinner there. Fish, of course. Around a pool table, a blonde girl was playing with a few locals. Slow music, waves, lights on the beach. It was beautiful.

When we left to the car we crossed a dark parking. I was looking around very strain. I heard steps behind me and I jumped. That’s it! I’m being kidnapped! It was all planned! My crazy paranoid mind. It was just someone passing, Jaffa smiled and opened the door. I don’t think he had any idea about what was going on in my mind at the beginning at that evening.

Next we stopped at Tandoori Bar, the hot spot of nightlife in Diani. I ordered Stoney, ginger beer, for me and beer for Jaffa and I insisted to pay, as he was driving. All my crazy thoughts vanished. Though I think he liked me, it was nothing but a night out between friends. We talked about dolphins, his boat, his family, my family, about Diani and Mombasa, about how unsafe these places are but mostly about how amazing Kenya is. The very few tourists around were either older man with too young Kenyan girls and a few older ladies with, also young, Kenyan guys.

– I don’t want my sister to be like this, with one of these guys, he told me at one point. I work hard so she can stay in school and have a good life.

I got back to the hotel safe and sound and beyond all, very happy and grateful for such a great night.

It was so beautiful, the white villas with large terraces build by the pools in the middle. The apartment was huge and the bed in the middle with a mosquito nest. For about 30 euro per night this was heaven.

A light breeze from the beach blew the curtains in the air. I went out to the beach, it was too beautiful to sleep.

– Hello my friend!

As in every night, he was there. William was guarding the beach from 7pm till 7am. Tall, well built, with grey hair and a contagious healthy laugh. I bought two Stoney. I had an obsession for this drink.

– Cheers! What a lovely night, my friend!

We talked for a long time, in the moon light, watching the waves leaving the beach as a new low tide was coming and a cat struggling to catch one of the crabs that were vanishing in the sand every single time she got closer.

The next evening I came to the beach to say good bye to my friend. Jaffa drove me to the airport. We board the ferry singing Shape of you and eating baobab seeds candies, a local delicious treat.

Till next time, Nairobi!

Rachel, whom I met online and organized all my safari trip saved the last day to spend it together in Nirobi. Three guys, friends of hers, joined us. We had a wonderful time feeding the giraffes at Langata Giraffe Centre, hearing the stories of orphan baby elephants at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, having lunch and long walks around the city. In one souvenir shop I found a similar bracelet to the one I bought from the son of the tribe’s chief in Masai Mara. Identical, made of copper, only 20 times cheaper.

My last photo in Kenya is on top of Nairobi Tower, sitting down in a circle with Rachel and the guys.

What a story Kenya was! What a dream! What a beautiful place!

United Arab Emirates

Dubai – the desert and the city (Day 3)

5 August 2020 My Beautiful Places 2 Comments

An invisible sun lit up the horizon. Earth and Sky, soon that everything will be melted together in one shade of fire I adore, cut in halves by a straight line ready to explode: the far horizon. A sparkle slipped out behind the dark mountain silhouette, like a promise for more. I left the jeep and the cold air gave me goosebumps as my feet sank deep into the freezing sand. It didn’t matter. It was time for a rising sun. Time to welcome a new day….

5am

The window in my room was still dark. I was afraid to count how little time I’ve slept. Maybe 2 h and a yawn. Dubai was becoming the newest city to keep me awake, I thought, while making efforts to accommodate my sight and get dressed. Fast! 15min later I was out in the hotel lobby, where my friend, the Indian who’s shift was always during the night, every night, 365 nights a year, welcomed me with the same kind and joyful smile.

– Ohh…you can’t sleep?…

– I could’ve very well slept, but I have a sunrise to catch in the desert! I won’t leave Dubai without it! I answered him in a hurry, closing the big entrance door behind me.

There I was 30 min later, with three other Indians: the driver and another couple we picked up from the opposite side of the city, driving to catch the sunrise on the red dunes, leaving the city behind, still sleeping and still quiet. I thought then of another fact about Dubai: there are more Indians there then Arabs. It surely looked so from where I stayed. On the road I listened to those three companions talking about their India and the region there they all called home.

We stopped in a gas station after a while of running on a straight and empty road crossing the desert. Surprise for the fool of me: it was freezing outside! Damn it! Of course it was, it was in the desert! If only I haven’t had forgotten that slight detail…. With all the glam and spam of Dubai it seemed I lost my head completely. With nothing to do or buy, I got some candies from the store to sweeten my cold dark morning. At least it worked for that pain in the bum flu, a Christmas Eve present, that had followed me all the way to Dubai and was still bothering me with an awkward cough. I was struggling to keep it under some control and avoid weird looks by pumping sugar in my blood while constantly eating candies until my tongue hurt.

the wait….

From all the waitings in my life, there’s one I love most: the wait for the sun to rise. Living on the bottom of a valley surrounded by mountains and high hills, where the sun rose bright and set even brighter, I was a kid that grew up without sunsets and sunrises. The once in a year occasions in summer when my family and I drove for 2 days to see the sea , set the ground for my eternal admiration for the sun in its first and last moments every day. It turned me into a sunset & sunrise chaser for life. One that fights sleepless nights, desert cold, chilly sand and more only to see that first sparkle of fire in the horizon and watch it growing until it becomes too bright to see. From the top of the large red dune, like a wave in a see of sand dunes, I forgot all but that: sunrise in the desert. Always fantastic.

riding the dunes

Sandboarding was not my thing. I tried it, got sand in my mouth and I was fine with it. Plus carrying the huge board all the way back on top of the dune, climbing it in a run on a moving sand was a hell of a workout at 6am. If there were no people watching probably it would have taken me the whole day. At least I didn’t felt cold anymore after. Next, please!

Our driver reduced the tire pressure, a manoeuvre meant to enable smooth movement over the dunes. And the dunes bashing started. First smoother and then faster and furious until my entire stomach was upside down. My front seat offered the best feelings of this crazy ride among waves of sand. A big like for it.

oh, not camels again….

Oh, yes! I was wandering how many times I said it was the last time…

– Did you ever do this?

– About 5 times in the last 2 years…. And I hate it, I then whispered to her, the Indian girl.

Her experience was much worse then mine, trying not to fall and break all bones. She had a zoophobia or animal phobia. Of all animals. So when my camel tried to scratch her cheek on the back of her camel, reaching her foot, this turned into a mix of hysteria and screams. It took a few long second to the rest of us, while her partner was repeating that she’s afraid of animals. Finally our driver saved the day and remove my camel away from her leg. Back home I have two good friends who are terrified of birds so this was no so uncommon.

the falcon

Falcons have eyesight eight times as sharp as humans. Peregrine falcons can dive at speeds over 300km/h. Seeing such a majestic bird imprisoned, with its eyes covered by the leather telwah, so it couldn’t fly, was heartbreaking to me. I know about speeches evoking country’s culture and history, the people of the desert traditions. But this is 2020 and entertainments from hundreds of years before can be also updated and creatures that belong to the sky will be better left where they belong: free.

We had breakfast in a Bedouin camp that looked like the scene of a long and loud party the night before. It was. Two women dancers still wearing their costumes crossed from one tent to another with sleepy faces and messed up hair. A few tourists came out blinded by the sun light and ran inside quickly. I took my plate and went outside the tent, sit down on a wet pillow and enjoyed my breakfast struggling to keep the cats away. The Indian couple joined me later, after he convinced her that the cats are harmless. It was such a nice morning in the desert and the sun was just perfectly warm.

the Old

The place was deserted. The 30+C temperatures of a hot start of January in Dubai have left the streets empty. The old limestone buildings, the narrow dirty streets in the back, the small shops and the merchants carrying huge bags had nothing in common with the city of Dubai that shone bright from just a few km away, across the river. Two worlds of the same city set apart from the very river that once gave life to a small fishermen village in these desert lands, the foundation of all that it is now.

The Gold Souk, The Perfume Souk and The Spice Souk are now the pride of Deira, the most mainstream in the old town. Unfortunately most of the stalls were closed, but those still opened offered a clear view of the place. I politely refused all the invitations to get inside the shops filled with sparkling jewelries just because I knew I wasn’t going to buy any. Just because gold’s just not for me.

Naif Souk I found it by chance, looking for a bracelet for my collection gathered from all the countries I go. Two levels filled with shops selling everything from pashmina scarfs to colourful hijabs or cheap jewelries and frequented by locals. The only thing I found came in set with a matched ring. About 5$ each, I decided to take two. but first.

– I promise you next year at this time they will look just the same! the merchant wearing too much Arab perfume said approaching. I did a step back only to get some air.

– That’s quite a hazardous promise at this price, don’t you think…? I like them even if they won’t last long.

– What phone you have?

And so I got the price I wanted using my good 4 years old iPhone. Never thought it can be helpful in negotiations. But in Dubai the image is everything and the phone is the financial business card.

coconut green, mango and sugar cane juice

….were the treats of my afternoon, enjoyed on a dirty street in front of a small fast food with 3 white plastic table in front. At one a large Indian family with kids, at the second an Arab old man was cleaning the dirt between its toes, leaving too much to see under his thobe. Before seeing him I was sure that the poor of Dubai where only Indian, Pakistani, Filipinos. I left the old Dubai live its live in Banyias Square and headed to the beach.

sunset on Kite Beach

A taxi from Mall of The Emirates took me straight to Kite Beach, when the sun was ready to hide behind Burj al Arab and soon enter the sea. I bought snacks and devoured them all on the beach, upset that I missed the chance to take a swim in Dubai and comforting myself that the water was too cold anyway. Indeed it was but I swam colder waters before.

I walked all the boardwalk from Kite Beach to Jumeirah Beach and Burj Al Arab. Again Google Maps fooled me about the distances in Dubai that seem small online and you finally walk till you drop.

I couldn’t find a bus to get me to Dubai Marina. Instead I took a taxi and decided to get to Atlantis. The last hot spot on my to do list in Dubai. I just wanted to see the hotel up-close.

We drove from the roots al the way up to the top of The Palm. The taxi left me in the front, on the left side main entrance. What a difference compared to the old Deira I left only a couple of hours before. The beautiful architecture, like a palace from The Arabian Nights, surrounded by lush gardens with palm trees and frangipani is one of the luxury hot spots not just in Dubai but the world. And of course with many taking selfies in the front… I left The Palm and Atlantis like all mortals, by train, the one that crosses the island and I found out about only then, offering great views to all the leaves filled with villas of The Palm.

Dubai Marina, again

For the third time I came to one of my favourite places in Dubai, I couldn’t leave without one last boardwalk stroll. After all, where else you get to see parked in line 3 or 5 cars that together worth more then 1M, or 2, or 3, if not here? I like the place for its mood of eternal holiday that few places manage to induce. I found wasabi peas in one market near by and finished the whole pack staring at the skyscrapers curtain of lights surrounding the Marina, thinking about the two handsome men dressed in immaculate thobs I saw before, by the beach.

And that was Dubai: recalibrating my expectations about what money can built, tracing higher limits between luxury and poverty and raising the bar so high when it comes to what entertainment a city can offer. Two sleepless nights and for long days let me discover my Dubai. From the serene desert to the noisy downtown, from the old souks to level 148 in Burj Khalifa, from Jumeirah beach to The Palm and Dubai Maria, it fascinates me.

I will come back for that missed swim in the sea.

Next: 24h in Abu Dhabi