Stunning limestone islands and islets rising up like green towers from the deep emerald waters… An Avatar like natural wonder of 1500 sq km in the Gulf of Tonkin, “Halong” means “descending dragon” in Vietnamese. The kind of place I would cross the world to see. And so I did, but…
171 km from Hanoi only. Done. The plan was perfect: a day tour by boat. But I wanted more: the view from Bai Tho Mountain (Poem Mountain). Thanks to that view I heard about Halong Bay in the first place, on Instagram, where else?! So my improved plan was to pay for the tour from Hanoi, but arrive in Halong Bay earlier, by a local transport, so I can do the hike and join the tour after.
I still have in my phone the photo I took at 5am, on the empty and wet streets of Hanoi. The meeting point was close to St. Joseph’s Cathedral. I waited and waited and nothing for more than 40min. I was already thinking about going back to bed but I just stayed longer to contemplate about not seeing Halong Bay that day. I couldn’t believe my eyes when a van stopped on the dark alley. So I was finally off to Halong Bay, where I arrived around 8:30.
It was a cloudy day. I still had time, since I planned an hour for the hike to the viewpoint on top of Bai Tho Mountain and about 30 min to get back to the port for the tour. A lady was selling flowers on an improvised stall on her bike. I had a delicious bun cha at a small local restaurant on the back alley where the entrance to the starting point of the hike was. I had all the necessary information: about how the access was forbidden since it was considered unsafe, about the iron gate that was built to prevent the entrance and how that looked, about the lady living there that could help in exchange of a fee, I even knew the most recent price. So let’s say I did my homework well. But the Vietnamese rain started.
I ordered a tea and waited a bit more, hoping for better weather. Usually rain was in short episodes. This time it looked bad…
I got my so wished break and went to look for the entrance door towards my so wanted viewpoint. A local helped me find it. I entered, went up some dark stairs and knocked on a door. A dog was barking. A lady opened the door looking as if she was just out of bed. She saw me and knew why I was there. She asked twice the money I knew others before me had paid. I said no. We had the deal.
From all the information I gathered online, I missed the details of the access spot. When she showed me a huge rock that I needed to climb to get to a whole under the iron fence where the iron bars had been bended…
Ohh no, I can’t do this…
Noo, easy, easy, come.
With her pushing my but up and me grabbing and climbing the wet sharp edges of that cliff, getting to the fence and sneaking through the small whole. I was up, muddy but up.
The hike started. I prayed for the mist to disappear and allow me to, at least, get a glimpse of that gorgeous view towards the bay that I was so long dreaming about.
Suddenly I heard something. I wasn’t alone anymore! Someone was approaching…. Huh, I was relived to see a small dog running to catch me. I was happy to see him since I was starting to feel a bit weird there by myself, hiking in a place I didn’t know. Unfortunately someone else had joined us soon: the rain, again! I continued on the trail, still hoping for a weather miracle. But was actually getting worse, it even started pouring and I was getting drenched. Luckily, I found a shelter under a deserted construction.
My best friend in Ha Long Bay
Minutes later the rain stopped again but all around became even more misty like I was in a cloud. I got close to the top but only to realize that all this was in vain. The view was completely covered in a white thick mist. I was all wet and disappointed in spite of all efforts. It was getting late, so I really couldn’t wait any longer. It was time to start my way back.
As I and my dog buddy were approaching the roofs, signaling the end of the trail was close, I saw in a yard three pit bulls sleeping. Between me and them was no fence, just a few meters distance. I swallowed my fear and hurried back to the green fence entrance. Once there I realized going up was piece of cake compared to going down. The dog started crying, looking at me, adding more panic. It was late, three pit bulls were free somewhere behind me, it was raining again so fear was no option. I dragged myself down the muddy cliff, back into the lady’s yard. I wished I could kiss in the end that amazing dog, my only huge support there.
The gate to the no viewpoint on Poem Mountain, Halong Bay
I ran back to the main street, in the rain. I was so muddy and embarrassed to be so dirty. I found a store and bought a pair of pants. For the tshirt I could only hope it was going to get dry, at some point, that day.
If before, while I drank the tea looking at that street, it was filled with taxis, now there was none. I was in the rain, waiting, hoping to get one.
Finally a taxi stopped and a very cheerful guy said hello. Every minute was like an hour, it was getting very late for my tour. We arrived in the port. I was relieved for a second only to panic again when I realized he had no idea where to go and kept stopping to ask for directions. I wanted to kill him as if all that was his fault. Even if it wasn’t.
My phone rang in my hand. The guy from the tour announced me that the boat had to leave, they can’t wait for me any longer. Great!
So I finally arrived in the port, where the boats for the bay were starting the tours, 10 minutes after my boat has left. At the end of all that had happened by then, a wide smile from the taxi driver was all I didn’t want to see. I was rude to him, handed the money and left closing the door. This was a moment I still regret very much, after I digested all that has happened that day out of my bad planning only.
I went inside the waiting room. I felt cold, the God damn rain was continuing outside, my t-shirt was wet and my mood was on the brink of starting crying out loud. I just stayed there thinking how bad it all turned out. I didn’t want to see any Halong Bay and I hated that rain, blaming it for ruining my day.
I made peace with all that happened and went outside. The sky was clearing up and I was able to see the green cliffs rising up the calm waters. How I wanted to see this place and how I screwed it up!
I rushed back to the ticket offices area to ask for a boat, maybe there was still something, maybe a shorter tour. The one I had paid for was going to an island on top of which there was a great view to the bay. But since I was running for two rabbits, I ended up catch no view.
I found something, a short tour and I bought a ticket. Soon the boat left the port but my mood was terrible. I was so upset that I didn’t event want to leave the boat to visit a cave, a first stop. The guys in the crew looked at me as if I was nuts. I stayed on the boat, watching the horizon, all that way through Halong Bay that I didn’t saw that day.
Sailing in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
We sailed deeper into the bay, passing by Hon Ga Choi Island – Fighting Cocks Island and a few more islands covered in green vegetation. What a beautiful place this Halong Bay can be! In the end, surrounded by all that pure beauty, I refund peace. I was glad I took a glimpse of it, at least, instead of nothing, after that long serie of mistakes I did that day.
Late in the afternoon, back in the port, I finally joined the tour I was supposed to be in and went back together to Hanoi.
That day of May 2019 in Vietnam was a good lesson.
Looking back, after many more other lessons that followed that moment and, for sure, before many other lessons that are waiting, I am smiling. I was taught with time that not all wishes are meant to happen as we plan. Some not at all, some in a different way. We can’t control the day, nor the weather or the luck, good or bad. We never know what will happen once we go out of the door in our home. So how can we know what will happen when we find ourselves on the other side of the world.
PS: During the trip to Vietnam I met many others that went, like me, to see Ha Long Bay. Some for one day, some for more days. I had one question for all: how was the weather. I always got one answer: bad.
Hanoi was that day the most polluted city in the world. My throat was burning, it was like I was constantly walking behind an old truck.
– It’s because of the weather, city traffic and… he hesitated a bit, China.
I was staring at his phone showing on red AQI 170. Better than Hanoi were Katmandu, Beijing, Chiang Mai, Mumbai, Dhaka…the champions of poisoned air.
I was doing a free city tour conducted by a Vietnamese student who was using this job to practice English. His wish was to study in Japan next year. But until then, he was showing me his home city, Hanoi.
The city looked alive. In a profound contrast to how I found it the night before. After midnight Hanoi is emptying it streets and closing all restaurants and shops behind roll up storefront grilles.
The night before
When the taxi stopped on that street in Old Quarter I was so afraid the host from the guesthouse won’t open the door and I will sleep in the street.
In desperation I started knocking the grills. All quiet around…no sign of anyone awake. I insisted and thank God a voice finally answer from inside. The grilles have been rolled up and I steped in. Before I acomodate my eyes with the light inside I saw three large dogs coming toward me barking. Damn, I made a step back…. But my host was there and started talking to them and even convinced me I won’t be bitten. I wasn’t that sure, these three were huge and angry. How the hell I will live here with the beasts for the next days, I thought…
I excuse myself repeatedly for the late hour and once in my room I felt like home, all was spotless clean and cozy.
The next morning, the dogs, two huge white Akita and a white stray female didn’t even look at me as I passed by then. My heart was not so calm though. But in the following days we got from this to me stepping over them as they were sleeping all over the floor all the time. All the attention I got was a slightly open eye… they were adorable. I remember one day I was sitting on the couch, talking with the father of the family. All three of them came to me to sniff around. I was not afraid anymore and I wanted to pet them and play with them but a no, please from the father was the sign they wanted to keep these dogs as guarding dogs not cuddling dogs.
In the first morning, when I went out from the guesthouse it felt like I was in another city, not the one I arrived the night before. Restaurants with tile floor and plastic tables with little stools around, all the same maybe just different colours from a a restaurant to another. I stood still and just looked around me: Hanoi was alive! People cooking, people cleaning, people opening their stores, rushing on foot or riding bikes with large baskets with vegetables, fruits or flowers while wearing their iconic conical hats. It was the Vietnam I imagined.
Soon I met my guide for the free walking tour.
We started… in French style, with Hanoi Opera House. This reminder of the French colonial times, modelled after the Palais Garnier in France, gave me a feeling of teleportation in Europe. But the motorbikes rushing around brought back the local Vietnamese feel.
Ngọc Sơn Temple, accessed by the crimson Thê Húc Bridge, sits on Hoan Kiem Lake – Lake of the Returned Sword. The name comes from a 15th century legend about a turtle god. And south from the temple sits Turtle Tower, dedicated to this mystic divinity. In that cloudy day, staring at the murky waters of the lake, the crimson bridge surrounded by mist, still having in mind the two huge stuffed turtles that once resided in the lake, now kept in glass cabinets nearby… I was in a state where I could fully believe any legend.
Trần Quốc Pagoda is Hanoi’s oldest pagoda, rises high on an islet in West Lake. It is believed it was built 1,400 years ago, so this means it is older than Hanoi! So how came? It was transported here in the 17th century to protect it from the flood damage. With the amount of rain I saw those days in Vietnam…no wonder! This is also why all the temples have steps and a high wooden doorstep, to keep water outside.
We remained in the past for the next stop: an Ancient House, on Ma May Street. Stepping back in time, in late-19th-century Hanoi and see how a wealthy family lived back then was incredible. I felt instantly absorbed by the past, forgetting the present once I stepped inside. Every piece of furniture, every decoration object, every cup of tee, all beautifully crafted, sent you in the past. I walked the two floors of the house, the central courtyard, the small mezzanine. The small courtyard in the middle of the house was my dream place of the house, decorated with bonsais, a drinking table, with the open sky serving as a roof, to watch the clouds and the stars. Just imagine seeing 19th century Hanoi! Even a glimpse of it is a gift.
Next I served a big dose of local street art on Phung Hung Mural street. Each of the murals on this 200m long wall are showcasing a fracture of the city’s long standing history, folklore and locals activities. And not to mention, the instagrammable value of the place…
Speaking of value, Temple of Literature is where students come nowadays to pray for good luck at their exams. Founded in 1070 by emperor Ly Thanh Tong to worship Confucius, after it became the first university of Vietnam. Until the colonial times, for over 700 years, hundreds of students studied here. Inside the large structure lies the temple itself with, of course, a high wooden doorstep and a beautiful shrine inside with plates with huge Buddha’s hand fruits. I never saw this lemon with fingers fruit before, that is believed to bring good fortune in Asian beliefs and is used as an offering.
A calligraphy master writing calligraphy in the digital age is something like a balm for the soul and a bliss for the eye. In a hidden corner, facing a yard full of bonsai trees, with no one around but silence, it was this gentleman surrounded by beautifully black painted letters.
My last image of the Temple of Literature that day was a group of graduates having their photo taken in this full of significance place, a true temple of education.
Back to the street, I mean… Train Street, cause Hanoi has that too! Placed in the Old Quarter, this is the gathering point for social media fans/freaks and the rest of the tourists/travellers that arrive in Hanoi. Leaving all aside, it’s a cool place just because not every day you get to see a train crossing on a very narrow street among colourful houses and where you can sit at one of the coffee shops there and watch the train passing by so crazy madly close to your cup! It’s a nice experience to live, like Mae Klong Railway Market close to Bangkok. I took a photo with my pink umbrella while dinner was being cooked. I was jealous, I would fancy such a dinner, on a railway.
Vietnamese food is so praised all arund the world. We had a stop at a place famous among locals for…of course, pho. This dish is everywhere, as a true national food deserves. A salty broth with rice noodles, chicken or beef, served together with a plate of fresh herbs that you add in this hot soup to enjoy all those fresh flavours at once. It’s delicious, full, healthy and cheap. For someone that grew up with soups almost every single day, like me, pho feels like home, though different.
During all my staying in Hanoi, I had this feeling that I didn’t know how to really enjoy the best of their food. This was a moment when I missed friends, so we can share a table, order different foods and taste that and that and that. Almost every time I felt like what I saw in other people’s plates around me was a better choice than mine. But still, I did have great food.
I said goodbye and thank you to my student guide with a tip.
The last landmark to see was St Joseph’s Cathedral, the Notre Damme of Hanoi. Built in 1886, this neo-gothic building is in an absolute contrast to its surroundings, resulting an an Asian – Europe mix. A dance performance in the front, with young girls wearing long white scarfs and slow moves was a beautiful end of the day.
I walked the streets in Old Quarter that late evening. People cooking, people eating, people drinking, people selling. At the end of the day in front of every restaurant the dishes were washed on the pavement. I took a photo that I knew would shock my mom. The next day I will eat again from those plates, so what?!
I stopped at a store with the most crazy colourful prints. A guy was trying a shirt and shorts with banana print. He looked hilarious. I bought a pair of shorts with watermelons, also hilarious.
I had one last stop close to the guesthouse, where a lady was selling every evening barbecue and peeled sweet crunchy full of flavour baby pineapples. In Hanoi people either sell something or eat something. Her father insisted that we have a cup of tea together. They had seen me before so now we were neighbours. This sums up in a gesture how people in Vietnam are. I told them my plans for the next days: Halong Bay and Sapa.
Back in my room a had a guest. Opening the door something black and big flew on the floor. My phobia was activated. The biggest cockroach I ever saw, plus, the beast was not just super speedy but also flying. I asked for help.
– Well, it’s a tropical country…bumbled my guest trying to catch the beast behind the bed.
My fear of bugs comes with me in any country, tropical or not, unfortunately. I so wish I didn’t had this damn ridiculous fear!
I fell asleep in my room, in the guesthouse in the Old Quarter in Hanoi, grateful for something awesome: I was in Vietnam.
You know that feeling when the alarm breaks your sleep, you open your eyes in the dark and you have no idea where you are. It was like that!
Than I remember: sunrise at Angkor Wat! Wohoo!
I got so excited I even put on a long colorful dress and a silk light shirt over, knotted around my waist. It’s not like I go every day in a place like that….
My tuk-tuk driver from the day before was already waiting for me. He came from a village an hour away, with a nice clean shirt and a very awake smile for 5am.
Angkor Wat
That image… the towers of the temple mirrored in the still waters of the lake in front, all this on a red sunrise background. The rainy day before I feared the weather might not allow me, but there it was, my long dreamed sunrise at Angkor Wat. Perfect!
About 20-30 other early birds were also there, waiting. And the sparkle came. First like lines of light and then the sun rose behind the beautiful shapes of the temple. That’s what I call a bucket list wish! I felt grateful.
The tour started with a new guide I met at the entrance where my driver remained. Apparently for Angkor Wat it is like this: another entertainment, other money of course.
I followed him for the next two hours inside and outside the temple, by its huge walls outside, in the large chambers inside, listening to the fantastic history of the Khmer empire that ruled much of mainland Southeast Asia from about 802 to 1431 CE. I was in a trance between past and present and with every step more wowed realizing how massive this sandstone carved temple was. I took a photo on the stone steps inside a huge interior courtyard only to remember how small I looked there. Outside, on a wall of columns made black by the hundreds of years passing over, I took another photo in the sun and got a compliment from a lady for how my outfit was matching the place. We laughed.
We crossed on foot the large bridge outside and I let Angkor Wat behind. I completed my happiness with a green coconut once I found my tuk-tuk driver outside.
Bayon Temple
The ride continued, we crossed the majestic bridge with statues at Victory gate to enter Bayon temple. The rainy day the day before gave me a different perspective on the temples, surrounded my mist, this time the stone structures were rising high on a blue clear sky background.
Bayon temple is to me the most picturesque from outside. With the blocks of stone spread around at the front, the high palm tree, the 12th-century temple, with its 54 Gothic towers, decorated with over 200 serene faces of, according to some Avalokiteshvara and according to others of the King Jayavarman VII himself, with the multitude of bas-reliefs incorporating more than 11,000 figures…. it’s a work of art sculpted in stone.
In the interior courtyard I took a sit and watched. The structure all around, travelers from all over the world, Buddhist monks in orange ropes, guides, a group of Japanese where a father had tight a kid with an anti lost wristlet, girls doing photo shootings. And at times, no one, for a little precious time.
Ta Prohm temple
If some temples, in the heart of the jungle, are now taken over by nature, in Ta Prohm nature truly rules. Probably the most instagrammed, with its structures tightly embraced by massive roots of trees like the invading tentacles of a gigantic octopus. The place looks not just out of this world but out of any imagination. Walking through this fairytale anything seems possible. I just couldn’t have enough of it, so much I loved it. And as it was afternoon time, it was almost empty. I felt like in Tomb Rider, curious, exploring every corner, touching the stones, the roots, looking all the way up to the canopy. What a beautiful place!
I was so high on Angkor Wat. Leaving, the images of the day were still playing in my head.
Two elephants carrying tourists brought me back to reality. I was revolted. I wish Asian elephants could meet their African untamed brothers, have a chat and learn to never obey humans. And this would end after a few bad but necessarily events.
We drove back top Siem Reap, through dusty villages with incredibly red soil, where kids in white uniforms were rushing on the streets on their way home, Buddhist monks were taking a ride somewhere with a motorbike taxi and frits and juice were sold by the roads on improvised stalls, next to gasoline bottles in plastic bottles of 1 or 2L. My driver stopped to buy one so we will be surely back to Siem Reap.
One more stop, I bought a durian from a lonely stall on a long dusty road. I paid less than 5 dollars.
Siem Reap market
I needed a back to reality shot. And I took in in full dose in the local market. Probably my friends back home would have a seizure seeing all that row meat on the ground, covered with flies, the half peeled fertilized duck eggs with the undeveloped dead chick inside and above all, the smells. But I fount it vivid, authentic, colorful and with the best and cheapest fruits and genuine people.
This is real life, real people, real local food. I even found, at the back at the market, sugar cane juice freshly made. It was delicious, with all that lack of hygiene all around. And than, sipping on my sweet juice, I saw her. Young, sitting distracted on a mountain of sugar cane sticks, with the boy clinging to her in a demanding pose.
I left with 2kg of maracuja. Up till today, that is the best maracuja ever.
Siem Reap at night
The city was waking up once the sun was set and the heat was gone. At dark hours life begins in Siem Reap. The night market, the stalls selling everything, the yummy smoke from the hot pans, the people eating outside on small plastic tables, the tuk-tuks waiting for one last customer that day, the motorcycles rushing everywhere. I almost got hit by one that I saw in the last second. I still can’t explain how it didn’t hit me but it did stopped my heart for a blink. My guarding angel must have been paying attention that instant.
Last day in Siem Reap
This day we went outside the city, in the rural area, by the Tonle Sap Lake, where the houses, temples, the school were built on 10m high wooden pillars to keep them dry during wet season when waters were high. Floating villages have buildings on land but also straight on the lake, far from land.
30$ boat ride for an hour on the lake seemed a scam and I would have paid gladly even more to a local with a small boat and a family to feed. But not to the men in shirts behind the counter, where in 45min hanging around I heard 3 different prices. I really try to find a way to go by boat but those people had monopole there. I even got pissed off with my tuk-tuk driver for bringing me there and to their surprise, I left without a tour.
Instead I took a walk through the village but I felt awkward trying to take a glimpse into their life and in the same time not offend them with my presence. I was curious to see all that was there, what people were doing, how the houses were inside… There was poverty, but I was there for authenticity. Simple life is fascinating to me. Still, I was an uninvited tourist into their life. Sometimes it’s too much even being in a place.
A pond full of lotus flowers in bloom, with ducks moving around the green floating leaves and a row of straw huts was my last sight of Cambodia. Simple pure beauty, like all I’ve seen in this country.
I will remember Cambodia for the thrills of Angkor Wat temples, of course and the never to forget flavors of Khmer food. But there’s so much more that’s not on tours options. The day by day life on the vivid markets, on the hidden streets, in the floating villages. People cooking, fishing, cleaning every day, their most candid smiles, the cutest kids. After all, people are the real Cambodia.
Siem Reap: 900 years old temples, a very authentic local market and the best Khmer food.
Whenever the alarm rings at hours like 4am, my first thought is: I don’t want this! Why do I do it? I don’t even like that… And “that” can be anything. Nothing is wow enough to leave the bed so early. Not even a huge bucket list wish like sunrise at Angkor Wat… Then I remembered the tuk-tuk driver. I met the day before, when we planned that 2 days tour through Angkor Wat, he was coming to pick me up from a village 1.5h away. He’ll wait for me a long time only to end up going back home to his 5 small kids, sad and with no money for that day … Ok… up!
Day 1:
One day before
6am : I opened my eyes. It was day outside. The bus has stopped. My whole body was in pain after a night spent on the road. The large leather reclining armchairs in the bus from Bangkok to Siem Reap were great, but still far from a bed. Night buses are a popular and cheap option in SE Asia.
– Border crossing!
We left the bus and walked the few meters from Thailand to Cambodia. Outside the Immigration office where I got the visa, in a dusty crossroads, tens of tuk-tuks were waiting. We were immediately outnumbered by the tuk-tuks drivers offering rides and tours. I left with the first who came towards me. He wore a blue short sleeved shirt and a sincere smile. He grabbed my trolley before I said ok. I was too tired to protest and they all had the same price anyway. He proposed a three days tour to Angkor Wat and around Siem Reap and we had a deal.
11:30: I was in my room already. Huge place with a large bed and a big terrace with two white columns and a ratan round table and chairs, facing the dusty busy street in front. This was my home in Siem Reap for the next days.
Across the street, Khmer Cuisine Watbo restaurant. I heard the local food was so praised and I was curious to try it. And hungry as hell.
A lady was selling green coconut in front. I took one from a bucket of ice, cold and huge, and I sat at a table outside, in the shade. It was a hot noon. I ordered a soup served in a coconut. It was dense, full of flavors, similar to Tom-Yam but much thicker and full of fish and shrimp. I paid almost nothing. I was starting to really like the country.
Tour to Angkor Wat
14:00: I met my driver and his improvised tuk-tuk. These vehicles look better in Thailand, while in Cambodia anyone with a motorbike and two handy hands can built one. The result looks like a functional improvisation. And that’s exactly how mine looked, but it did the job!
We left behind the streets of Siem Reap and I was enjoying the ride, absorbing everything with curiosity. Cambodia seemed less developed than its neighbor Thailand, but somehow this made it even more fascinating in its authenticity.
After only 30 min ride we were in the middle of a pouring rain. It took a few attempts to convince my driver to stop and a few more to get him inside the tuk-tuk with me before getting all wet. Sometimes the respect this people have for guests is too much!
We were covered by a curtain of water that turned the red soil of the road into orange rivers and orange water ponds. Buddhist monks at the back on motor bikes, under black umbrellas, people in tuk-tuks. Life has stopped like a moment frozen in time by the heavy shower dropping down from the sky.
– What season is now? I asked, already knowing the answer.
– Dry season.
We both started laughing.
Dry season in Siem Reap, Cambodia
My first photo in Cambodia is with me sitting on a wooden gate, on the side of the red soil road, with my feet ankle deep in the orange water of a long water pond as the last drops of rain were still falling. The sky cleared up and life restarted and so did our tour.
I wanna mention something first: when someone says they saw Angkor Wat, well, that’ll be pretty much farfetched in most cases. The complex of temples reunited under one name, the name of the main temple, Angkor Wat, spreads on 162 hectares and is the largest religious structure in the world, included in Guiness Book for that. Add to this image 72 major temples and over 1000 buildings. So what I can say is that in 2 days I saw just a part of this massive and mind-blowing site.
First temple: Preah Khan
The entrance was epic: a wide bridge of stone, with the sides showing the remains of what used to be, hundreds of years ago, two parallel rows of stone statues, now all beheaded by the harsh history. Three towers at the other end, we passed through the middle one. My head was spinning around. Surrounded by lush jungle, it looked like a passage to another time and so it was. The heavy rain before and the steam still raising up from the ground made all look so mysterious and I was thinking: Am I really here?
West gate and Naga bridge at Prasat Preah Khan temple, Angkor Wat
We stopped and continued on foot. A few small kids were playing in a water pond. The air was fresh and very humid, it smelled like wet soil and plants. In the front I saw it rising, the silhouette of the temple rising from the mist, surrounded by high trees with their tops still hidden in white clouds. I stood still, I was mind blown… I looked around as if I tried to see more, all those details. Another visitor was standing in front of the steps, as if he was under a spell. Just the three of us and the temple.
Cambodia, Preah Khan temple, Angkor Wat
I realize now, writing this and looking at the photos, that describing Ankgor Wat is a mission impossible. All those carvings, the ornaments in stone, the columns, the imposing structures now taken over by nature with massive trees growing through stone, conquering what man once built in this land of jungle. What a thrill to see it! I was like the man before, under a spell.
Majestic tree at Preah Khan temple, Angkor Wat
My now friend guide brought be back to reality with a green coconut and something I never had before or since then: Asian Palmyra palm tree fruit – a few pieces of white gelatin sold in a small plastic bag.Very good and juicy. He went to buy it so I can have the price for locals.
After a tuk-tuk ride through a jungle road, we walked again, crossing the long wooden path over Jayatataka Baray pond, now dry, to Neak Pean temple.
We reached a large square pond, bordered by steps and surrounded by four smaller ponds. In the middle, a small circular island with a stepped base. Elephants sculptures were placed on the four corners in its glorious times, one was still standing.
As we crossed the bridge back, a local man was hand catching fish in the small water pond, the last trace of the now dried pond. “Diner”, my guide smiled. The sky was getting pink shades. It was coming: the sunset.
Pre Ruptemple
From the base, those steep long steps of stone looked intimidating. Two lions carved in stone were facing the horizon at the top.
Built to honor God Shiva, the temple consists of a three-tiered pyramid-shaped structure.
From the top, views to Phnom Bok in the east and the towers of Angkor Wat in the far west. No sunset that evening, for me and the rest of visitors ending a wonderful day there.
Later that evening, when I went to sleep and I closed my eyes, the memories of the day developed fast like in a resume. What a rich day it was! And what a wealthy day was coming…
Day 1: I opened the small iron gate and entered the interior yard. I left behind the uproar of the street and I took a glimpse through the small window of the Thai restaurant’s kitchen. I climbed the stairs with the last drops of energy. That damn heat gave me a checkmate. I arrived at my door and suddenly I woke up from the drowsiness: the light inside was on. It’s not possible to be so stupid and let it open all day, I thought. I’m always careful to close the AC while away but I let the lights on… I switch the key and push the door. I startled: a woman was inside my room, laid on the bed! I went straight to her:
– Who are you? What are you doing in my room?
Morning in Phuket
After a 12h flight, that morning I landed in Phuket. Since I don’t do holidays like normal people and instead I turn all trips into marathons, I took a next flight to Bangkok. I saved the beach for later. Later meaning 2 other countries later… While waiting for the 3rd flight in 24h all I had to do was… people watching. Lots of very petite women of all ages and all pretty, many foreigners men with way too young girls, a few transgender men, backpackers and lots of cute kids.
Afternoon in Bangkok
I was greeted by the capital with the most unbearable heat and humidity, around 33C and over 80% humidity. A taxi drove me to my cheap guesthouse close to Khaosan Road, e few minutes from Ratchadamnoen Road, the wide boulevard heading to the Grand Palace. About 7 euros per night for a room with 6 beds inside and, thank God, a life saving AC.
I let my stuff in the room and went out for a discovery walk. The moment I stepped outside, I was all drenched in my own sweat. My clothes, my skin, my hair. Wet. But I was going to get used to this sensation fast and the busy street made me immediately part of the city. Plenty of small restaurants around where food was being cooked in boiling water, hot oil, huge pans and apparently no bother for hygiene. Asia was still new to me back then. End of April 2019. It was my second time in SE Asia and my second time outside Europe. I knew nothing. Thai food was new to me as well. My perceptions were about to change drastically that very evening. Shrines of all kind, small, larger, or huge golden Buddha statues for sale by the road, Buddhist monks walking barefoot in their orange ropes. My head was spinning to see all the show around. I crossed the large street and headed to Khaosan Road right when the sun was saying good bye on the pinkest sky. The lights, the tuk-tuks, the horns, the steams from the hot pans, the flavors and the people from all over the world, all in a blue hour rush. It was so entertaining to watch. A lady was selling fried tarantulas, scorpions on a stick and crispy silkworms. I paid and she let me took some pics. That’s how it works. A few meters further a crocodile was on a grill, parts of one leg already served. I walked up and down the street as it was getting darker and busier. The pink turned blue and after dark on the sky. I was a mix of jetlag, excitement and hunger. Everybody was sipping, chewing, licking fingers around. After all, food is what made Khaosan Road that famous. But what to choose when I didn’t now what was cooking. Hunger helped me pick one free spot following the golden rule of the crowd in front. A metal table and a vacant red small plastic chair.
– Hello, love, what shall I bring for you? I liked that he was more dressed up than me, red nails and red lipstick. And a fair smile. I liked him instantly.
– Tom Yum soup please.
Cause that was all I knew about Thai food back then. I heard many times about that dish but had never tried it, soo… A few minutes later, after a wink and a “There you are, sweetheart, enjoy!” the soup was on the table, burning hot and I was going to experience a revolution. Of taste. First taste was like coconut met lime and vanilla meet caramel, sweet and sour in the same time, very spicy and just enough salty. Oh my God! That first sip ended in a long Hmmm….Up till today that was the best Tom Yum I ever had. I got courageous and ordered more food, some rice and meat dish after. Also delicious. I instantly stopped seeing the lack of hygiene all around and instead I saw some of the best foods all around. Those flavors and scents from ingredients being thrown in the hot pans, flames rising up and people enjoying this pure basic pleasure of eating. Amazing combinations of ingredients resulting in great never tried before taste. After I walked up and down that street and tried Thai deserts, exotic fruits, smoothies.
Midnight: Resurrection service at the Russian Orthodox church
I had this idea: to attend the Resurrection service as the next day, back home, was celebrated Easter. I searched for an Orthodox church. I found one. At the outskirts of Bangkok. I found a taxi after no tuk-tuk agreed to go that far. I negotiated the price. And off we were. I had no clear idea where I was going. The trip proved to be a nightmare. We got stuck in the traffic, as we left the downtown many streets were under construction. After more than an hour I finally saw on the map the destination getting closer. When we entered up on a dark street with villas where I could only hear dogs barking outside, I concluded we’re lost. The driver thought I was crazy to bring him into nowhere. I was blaming Google… Then I saw a light and a door was opening. It was the church. Thank God! I asked him to walk with me a few meters, there were stray dogs barking outside. I opened a huge wooden door to enter a room invaded of candles light. It was a Russian church and the resurrection service had already started. All women had their heads covered. In my country this is not the norm so I stepped forward feeling many curious eyes. I understood nothing since it was in Russian but I felt in peace. It was beautiful. I realized I forgot my candle in the room… A man saw me searching my pockets in despair and he indicated a corner. I bought a red candle there. I got the light from a person next to me. And like this Jesus Christ was resurrected. In Bangkok, at the end of a long trip, after a long day, in a fully spiritual night. I paid to the taxi driver way more than we first agreed, it was fair this way. I got back to my room and I slept for the very first time with the AC on. It was that hot.
Day 2:
6am Bangkok seen from a tuk-tuk felt fresh and promising. Was a good day to make great memories. I saw my face in the mirror, sitting in the back and smiling. The city was already up. People rushing in tens of tuk-tuks and motorbikes. The heat was still bearable now and the air less polluted. I felt the breeze on my face. I love these simple moments, away from everything, when I feel like all I have is all I need. The bus station where the trip ended was busy: tourists, taxi drivers, tuk-tuks. Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and Mae Klong Railway Market were on my traveling menu that morning. The price I knew from the internet travel blogs made the few taxi drivers laugh out loud. I also laughed at their price. But since I wasn’t there for laughing, I got worry that my plan was failing. If I don’t find an option, what will I do next?! I took a few steps away, thinking, when one man came towards me and whispered:
– How much you want to pay?
– Tell me a price that is ok for you too ….
We had a deal on the price and itinerary and a few minutes later we left the city behind. I was proud of myself for not taking an organized tour and solving this. He wasn’t talkative like me, so I let him drive and I was happy to look outside. The 1st stop was Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. I was dreaming to see this place after all the images I saw on Instagram.
– 4000 baht (about 100 euro) for one person, the boat takes you to…
– Sorry, what… how much?
– 4000 and…
– Noo, noo, thanks. I stood up to leave. I was getting mad only hearing this price!
– This is the only way to get to the floating market, lady…ok, 3000 baht, let’s go….
– Ok, I will not go to any market.
– You came here and you won’t go?
– Exactly!
I asked my taxi driver and he confirmed, that was the only way to the market. By boat! What the hell… I thought I read about people getting there by bus but wasn’t sure anymore, I read so much stuff about Bangkok before coming. Everybody I asked after said the same, that was the only way. I wanted to leave and I was upset, I didn’t want to pay, but the market was so close and I traveled so far and it’s a must see and… All those thoughts. A lady approached me and said: 2000 baht, I take you there but don’t tell them.
– I won’t pay 2000… I ended up paying what was equal to around 30 euro. But I was still upset and I was soon going to be crazy mad. I got in the boat with two other people. A water channel, a few dwellings by the water, tropical vegetation, bla, bla, pretty but nothing special. Then a few open stores by the water, one selling paintings. Than a few boats started to appear, mostly women selling veggies, fruits, ice-cream, deserts. The heart of the market had a few concrete steps on a side where people were enjoying different foods they had bought from the stalls around or from the boats. A few log boats were floating around. I took many photos. It was getting more interesting.
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
And then I raised my head and I saw in front a large concrete bridge over the water and cars passing! So it was possible to get to the famous floating market by car, free and I was scammed badly, taken for a fool. I got so angry and I couldn’t wait to get back to those liars. I guy was holding a small primate, some monkey, for photos when we got back to the jetty and handed the poor captive creature to me.
– No more money, set it free and you go to work… The taxi driver was waiting for me smiling and I was boiling. I started on the way to the car:
– My friend, I know I am a tourist. You see me as a bag of money. But I come from a country where what you did today happens all the time. So I know a scam when I see a scam. I know what you did. I saw the bridge. I now know I could have got to the market by car not boat only, as you all sait. You let me pay for a stupid tour. Ok, that’s it but no more scams for today, please. Ok? Or I won’t need you anymore to get back to Bangkog. I was so mad I could have walked to Bangkok for days if I had to. My friend understood the message very well. Next he propose to take me as a bonus to Taling Chan market, another floating market but less touristy, placed by the shores of Mekong. Not far and more quiet. I had lunch there, sitting on concrete steps, food cooked in front of me, on a boat and served on banana leaves. I was fascinated how the lady managed the grill and fire on the boat and was cooking fresh seafood like in the best kitchen in the world. Fried calamari and a sour & spicy sauce and sugar cane juice to drink. I still remember the feel of tranquility and the still waters of Mekong. On the way to the car we passed by a beautiful old lady selling sticky rice cooked in bamboo sticks. I got the forbidden one, black. Hot and delicious! A minutes drive after we we arrived in Mae Klong Railway Market, the famous market crossed by a train. We just got there and I saw a crowd of people on both sides, with phones in their hands. In the front I saw how the sellers were wrapping the roofs on the sides, one by one, finally revealing in the front, at a few tens of meters, the train. I heard “photo, photo, quick!” My now friend taxy driver brought me back to reality. The train was slowly approaching. I jumped on the lines, laughing and looking back to the train. He got a perfect shot, in a move with my pony tail in the air. I jumped on one side back and the train was at 30m away now. When it got closer I felt a hand pushing me closer to the wall. A Spanish girl was so terrified by how close the train was that she felt the need to protect me. We looked one another and started laughing, no words were needed, we shared a a great moment. The train passed slowly, 20 cm from our bodies as we were all glued to the wall.
Mae Klong Railway Market
Slowly, the orange and red carriages left the market. Just seconds after the sellers got it all back, the market was again covered, protected from the burning sun. I walked the train line among stalls of fruits, seafood, spices, cooked foods, fresh meats, dried fish. The scent was too strong, the air and light scarce, the heat and humidity horrible. I got dizzy and I was going to throw up. Badly. I’m not sensitive at all but I guess it was too much at that moment. My taxi driver saw me and directed me towards the exit, in a place where more fresh air and light was entering the covered tunnel. I got a cold green coconut and felt better instantly. It was Easter day that day. I got a photo of me sitting on the railway line, drinking coconut, among the stalls, vendors, travelers. And wearing a big smile.
– All good?
– Yes, thank you, a lovely day. And we drove back to the city.
Afternoon: temples and the parade
Wat Phra Chetuphon, close to the Grand Palace is the largest temple in Thailand, has 95 pagodas and the famous reclining Buddha statue, 45 /15 meters. This place was the primary school of the world famous Thai traditional massage. I found some shade under a tree and sit there with a bottle of now warm water. It was unbreathably hot. I looked at the people and took some photos having the feeling that no photo can do justice to this beautiful place since all its beauty was in the details. A monk crossed the yard. A little girl was playing. I got courage to face the heat in the street and get back to my room, at the guesthouse. Wat Traimit is a must see also, where world’s largest Buddha made of solid gold weighing 5.5 tons is. But I skipped that one, my brand was melting and was late already for an entry. The air on the large boulevard was burning from the heat. I laughed thinking that this was by far the hottest day of my life. I still refer to extreme heat as Bangkok heat after that day of April 29th . I saw something yellow. Then a lot of yellow like I was hallucinating yellow from the heat. I wasn’t. All people around were wearing yellow t-shirts. Lots of men in yellow were sitting on the hot asphalt. I remembered I saw them in that morning, from the taxi. The driver said something about a rehearsal for the coronation ceremony, King Vajiralongkorn or Rama X, who’s image is one of the very first things you see once you land in Thailand, cause it’s everywhere, was ascending the throne following his father’s death in 2016. The ceremony for the new king was planned to take place few days after, on May 4th, at The Grand Palace. I admired the thousands of orchids decorating the sides of the boulevard trying to figure out how they were placed there and resist the heat. One man in his 20s, in a military dark suit was standing by the street, in plain sun. His face was covered in sweat that was dripping down his neck. In spite of the natural darker color of his skin I could see he was red from the heat. This is the image that stayed in my mind about that majestic rehearsal that I got the chance to watch a bit later that evening. I got to my room around 4PM, I felt I was dying of overheating. My heart was pumping fast. I turned the AC, drank water and laid on the bed in complete silence to cool down. An hour passed, hearing my heart slowly calming down. When I felt better, I got outside again, I was curious to see what was going on with the parade. Thousands of people in yellow were now sitting on the pavement, on the boulevard.
I found 30cm free and sat down. A man and a teen girl smiled to me, looking proud of what was happening in front. I tried to share the excitement. The girl was staring, I realized she had mental disabilities. She took my hand then started playing with my hair. Her father tried to stop her. It was ok. It was a hot long day and we were sitting down together on the pavement, watching the parade in front.
Evening: unicorns and Chinatown
Unicorn Cafe in Bangkok was iconic in 2019. Unicorns were a trend back then, toys, prints, all. Some were obsessed, some of my friends too. I took a taxi and got there an hour before closing. I had a hot chocolate in the pinkest cutest place filled with unicorns in pastel colors and of all sizes.
Unicorn Cafe
I took a walk to Chinatown after, I got lost in its vibe, walking among street food stalls, restaurants, neon lights, tuk-tuks. I loved it. I had dinner by the street, watching all that rush from a high table, sitting on a high chair. I was revolted to read in the menu: fin soup. Two Chinese next to me ordered that. As the night was gaining, I walked back to my accommodation, leaving behind the roam of the busy street with every step. Chinatown was noisy even at passed 11PM. After an hour long walk I was again in front of my door, again exhausted. I saw light under the door. I switch the key and push the door. I startled: a woman was inside my room, laid on the bed! I went straight to her:
– Who are you? What are you doing in my room?
She was pretty, petite and blinked fast and confused.
– I needed a bed for tonight, she replied with low voice. I said nothing. I started thinking that I must have booked by mistake a bed instead of a room? I went to my bed, sit and checked my booking. 2 min later I snaped again:
– Aha, I have booked correctly, the entire room, not just a bed. I know there are 6 beds here but I paid for the whole room. I realized all my stuff was now in order on my bed. I remembered I let it all spread all around the room, on 3 beds. I felt a bit uncomfortable but after all it was my room.
– My stuff was everywhere…
– I moved it there. I came late. I work in Bangkok. I will leave early in the morning, I go to my village. I needed a place to sleep and there was nothing and the lady…
– Aha, the lady!
– I took your thinks and place it on your bed…
– I’m sorry for my reaction, thank you, but I really paid for the whole room and you can imagine the surprise. We continued to talk and I felt bad for making her feel so bad. Meanwhile I briefly looked around to calm down my paranoia, all my stuff was there, all the moneym my camera, all. I called “the lady”, the crazy host. I was very nervous. She replied after a long time, very calm, listened to me and when I said I want to leave right away and get another room since she overbooked mine, she, even more calm, replied that I’m free to do as I please and wished me good night. It was both annoying and hilarious. It was 1am. I wanted to leave but in the same time I was in the room, AC was on, all my stuff on two beds now… and my new unwanted roommate seemed nice. So I did what was best, stayed.
I apologized again for making her feel like she invaded my room and we continued the talk. She was working in a restaurant in the city and finished very late that night, in the morning she was going home. All her things were in a nice order. I thought what a mess were mine… So, without any approval needed, I shared my hijacked room that night. We talked until we both fall aseep. Before dawn I heard her leaving the room quiety.
Day 3:
I woke up determined to make a scandal. Even though my roommate the night before was so nice and I finally liked her, I was still pissed off with the scammer host. I took a shower in the shared and overheated bathroom and I met her downstairs. With the most candid smile she said good morning as if nothing had happened. My determination kind of vanished, I realized she’s a lunatic scammer. When I confronted her about overbooking my room, she said that the girl needed a bed for last night, it was late, she had no other free bed left so she thought I won’t mind since my room had 6 beds. I ended the subject, it was in vain with her. I was leaving later that night and asked her to check out and pay for my 2 nights stay. She left to check the cost of my reservation.
– It’s …..
– Sorry, how much?
I thought I didn’t hear her well, it was the equivalent of 150 euro. For those money at that moment in Bangkok I could have easly got a 4 even 5 stars hotel. I went to her with the real cost shown on my phone, in my booking app, around 30 times cheaper.
– This is the cost of my reservation. I let the money on the table and left.
– Yes, thank you very much. Have a beautiful day, thank you, thank you… I concluded she was out of her mind. A total new category of scamer.
Time flew that day between a walk during the day on Khaosan Road, a pad thai in Soi Rambuttri, a hidden gem area known as the spot for the best food in Bangkok, too me just too touristy, a tuk-tuk ride with a driver making weird pig noises all the way to Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan or better just Wat Arun, a white gorgeous Buddhist temple in the Bangkok Yai district, situated on Thonburi, on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River.
Wat Arun temple
Again, all photos were lame and did -1000 justice to the place. I crossed the river at blue hour, as the Wat Arun was shinning like a lighted diamond. I ended the day with pad thai, again. The world famed Raan Jay Fai place, Thailand’s only Michelin-starred street-food, was closed that evening. Jay Fai, the cook, is famous for its crab omelet, which costs around 1,200 baht, $33. I didn’t know that then. I ended up next, at Leung Pha and it was good for both me and by budget.
Leaving Bangkok
The night bus to Siem Reap was at midnight. At 23:30 I was in front of McDonalds on Khaosan Road. But Bangkok was not done with me yet. After 30 min of waiting, no one came. I started panicking. Then I started asking. I found out that there was a second McDonalds at the other end of Khaosan Road. 5 minutes before midnight and 10 minutes before the bus departure time a was running with my large suitcase trying to get through wat has become at that hour an open air party, with people drinking, laughing and dancing. It would have been funny if I wasn’t desperate. I got to the other damn McDo. I wait, nothing. I ask a guy from the security and he said they were there minutes before and left. I had a number in my reservation and I beg him to call. My heart was exploding as he talks on the phone when someone finally answered. A few seconds after a guy arrives with a motorbike to take me to the bus. But my luggage is too big. We manage an improvisation and he drives like crazy. I arrive to the bus and I realized they had stopped the bus and waited for me. I felt so ashamed. In my last seconds in Bangkok I ran to the guy and insisted that he takes money for the saving ride. He refuses, I insist. I’m in the bus, all sweating and breathing fast, apologizing for the situation. And off I am for Cambodia, at the end of a night ride. About two weeks later, in Sapa, Vietman.
– I hated Bangkok, OMG, it’s horrible. Lots of “mee too” followed…
– How about you?
– I loved it, great city, had a great time, I said, chewing on a piece of bún chả.
“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; It should change you.
Bali is so touristy it hurts. But Ohh so beautiful also it makes you wanna go back there. An island of green, with rice paddies, waterfalls, jungle views, beach sunsets with skies set on fire, temples… Endless possibilities to discover beautiful places and shot great photos. The place always does the job. All it’s left is to frame the image and shot the photo.
I searched, I read, I choose. The places that charmed me the most are these, Instagrammable, famous, visited and so photographed.
10. Butterfly Park – Who doesn’t love an up close photo with a huge butterfly?! How about 10 butterflies? The place houses about that many species of Bali butterflies, including some protected ones. Huge, gorgeous and delicate. You’ll witness as they hatch, fly, eat flowers nectar, mate and eventually die falling on the ground. The Atlas moth is the special guest of the park, a nature wonder with its wingspan up to 25cm.
9. Campuhan Ridge Walk – picture perfect jungle on the right, a few cottages perfectly blending in the lush vegetation, high grass fields waving in the wind on the left, a narrow winding paved trail in the middle. A perfect short walk outside Ubud that can easily turn into a few hours long walk among rice fields, small cafes and little villages. Take the time and enjoy the golden hour and sunset here.
8. Lotus Caffe Ubud – I can’t get enough of the lotus flowers in bloom in the interior yard of the famous Lotus Cafe in central Ubud. Early in the morning you can enjoy the place in peace. Then cross the street, forget about any notion of time and get lost in the labyrinth of Ubud Traditional Art Market. Don’t hesitate to taste all the fruits you see on the stalls and you’ve never tried before. My favourite: salak, snake fruit. But beware of instantaneous addiction.
7. Tirta Empul Temple – One of the most iconic places in Bali. Wear the sarong provided at the entrance and follow the purification ritual inside the temple. Don’t miss the pond full of huge koi fish and enjoy the serenity of the place.
6. Kelingking Beach in Nusa Penida – a short boat ride to one of the most spectacular beaches, not only in Bali or Asia, but in the world. Crystal clear waves hit the bright gold sand beach. Shades of blue meet shades of yellow at the base of the iconic T-Rex shaped cliff that has become one of the most Instagrammable places in Bali. Mainstream but still gorgeous. Not to be missed.
5. Sunset in Kuta beach – Bali without a sunset? No way! The suns puts on the skies a breathtaking show as it says good night to Kuta beach. I thought people are exaggerating about this. Not they’re not. I’ve never seen before a sunset that conquers the entire horizon and sets it on fire like this. Grab a green coconut, sit on the sand and enjoy the 180′ sunset.
4. Besakih Temple – known as Mother Temple, my favourite by far. The oldest, biggest and most sacred temple in Bali. Doesn’t happen every day to see 86 (no kidding) temples in one place. That’s how many form the huge complex surrounded by breathtaking views of Mount Agung, still an active vulcano and scenic rice paddies and hills. This doesn’t mean other iconic temples should be missed, like Uluwatu or Tanah Lot.
3. Rice paddies, Ubud – prepare yourself a little before you will be charmed by Tegalalang Rice Terraces. Behind Lotus Cafe in Ubud you’ll find a secret path. Don’t be afraid to venture among cottages and backyards. At one point, a see of green will be revealed in front of you. And that’s my favourite place in Ubud, serene, quiet, like a beautiful secret well kept. At the end of the path, surrounded by rice paddies, sits Sweet Orange Warung. Delicious lunch & the best view.
2. Tegalalang Rice Terraces – the image you have in mind about Bali is probably this. Wild jungle and high palm trees surround the hills transformed in rice paddies, large terraces where white clouds mirror their shapes in the so many sunny days. A magnet for tourists, so wake up early to be there soon after the run rises and the light is perfect for photos, and you’ll have the place only for yourself.
1. Waterfalls of Bali – All of them For nature aficionados, adventure seekers, trekking fans or simply beauty admirers, Bali is a piece of heaven where some of the most spectacular waterfalls found their ways through the lush vegetation of the jungle. A true paradise, Tukad Cepung Waterfall is a breathtaking beauty and represents my favourite place in Bali from what I’ve seen so far. Not just the waterfall itself, hidden in a cave, where the sun rays reach only in the mornings, but the wild surroundings and the feel on untouched nature beauty. Take a step close to the waterfall and watch the sky as the water drops cover you in seconds. Tibumana Waterfall is another beautiful one.
Private tours are an excellent way of seeing what you really want to see in Bali, with the help of a local driver. For about 30$ a day, you’ll have an amazing time. Or rent a scooter, cheaper and more adventurous. But beware of accidents, one unfortunate event like this can let you quite skinned, in pain and with a ruined holiday.
Tip – For night street photography + a great foodie spoil, head after dark to Gianyar Street Night Market.
For my second trip to Bali, I’ve already saved a few places too see, like Lembongan island, (closed after the earthquake when I was there), Gates of Heaven in Lampuyang, Ulan Danu Temple, Thousands Island Viewpoint and Rumah Pohon Treehouse in Nusa Penida.
I tried but I just couldn’t… Between those long hours of working from home and the few minutes of sneaking outside when the dark covers well enough the deserted city, so that my secret strolls feels less as a guilt, I was tip toeing through my mind, through my memories. I didn’t wanna wake up the monster…. But as every glass of red wine sipped on my couch brings back the scents of Tuscany, the sweet potatoes I just baked in the kitchen bear the feel of wandering the streets of old Cairo, the black sticky rice pudding I made this morning brings a sweet air of mornings in Ubud…. the wanderlust monster is so awake. The sound of a plane earlier before made me run to the window, open it wide, only to check the night sky and see nothing… Still, I knew it was there….
At one point, weeks ago now, we’ve put living on hold, without knowing. Yes, there’s life behind walls, there’s work, dear ones, passions…. but the trees, the grass, the puffy white clouds on a blue sky, the waves, the so many things we love, these are all outside the walls.
1 hour and 45 minutes. This is how long the sun visits my balcony every day, if the sky is clear. And if the wind blows, I might feel some perfume from the blossom tree far beneath. I love every minute of it because I know I will have again more of what I love. From all the beautiful places I have so far seen, I now miss the most those I haven’t yet. But for right now, I’ll feed the monster with some memories… and I’ll adapt & wait.
Last hours in Bali
Wayan, my driver and guide and now friend, came earlier that morning, looking handsome, with a white turban and a blue sarong.
– Here, that’s for you, he said as we got in the car, and gave me a black plastic bag. Sticky rice cooked in small packs of banana leaves, algae pudding and a little plastic bag with orchids.
– This one, from my mom, if you wanna go to the healer, it’s good to offer him flowers as a gift.
We talked the other day about my intention to see a healer in Ubud, an experience I wanted to have but in the same time I felt unsure and intimidated: What if it’s true what it’s said: that person can look into your soul and read it like in an opened book…
I thanked him for his kindness practicing my 3 words so far Balinese and I started devouring all he had brought. I only stopped when I was too full. Yet, never too full to taste a new fruit. Was jackfruit’s turn. People were selling it by the road, entirely or already cut in small pieces and put in plastic bags. The woman we bought it from assured me it was freshly cut. Ignoring all the Western rules about food hygiene and eating peeled fruits in Asia, I had that jackfruit and it was delicious and with no regrets later.
Tanah Lot Temple
Probably the most spectacular places in the world where temples were build are in Bali. Tanah Lot is one of them. The rock that houses the temple, a pilgrimage Hindu site, faces the strong waves since the 16th century, in perfect solitude, on a rocky beach who’s shores are turned green by the algae. A ceremony was undergoing and tens of worshipers were moving around. I entered inside the cave, I drank from the holy tirta (spring) and when I came out I received the Bija, grains of rice washed with holy water or sandal wood placed on my forehead as a symbol of praying and wisdom by a pujari, the temple’s priest.
We took a few steps on the rocks covered by algae, with the majestic silhouette of Tanah Lot in the back and we asked a passer by to take Wayan and I a few photos. I was so happy to have participated in the ceremony and wear the Bija.
Bali temple, Tanah Lot
Back in the car wanted to know more about the healers in Bali and I kept asking Wayan about this. He said he never actually saw one in person but he heard about one frequented by many locals in his village, including his mom. She, on the other side, believes in “these things”…
– She goes sometimes to see this old man, and then she comes back and….aaa look, the Butterfly Park is here.
– What? Where? Here? I turned my head and yelled: STOOOOP!
A sudden break shook my head and the sharp noise of wheels broke our conversation about the healer.
– What happened, why you said stop? he asked calmly.
– Sooorry, I didn’t expect you’ll stop like this….
Probably any of my friends back home would have killed me for this. But not Wayan, he is the ZEN-est person in the world. I was half out of my car window already, looking at the back, for the big and colourful sign in front of the Butterfly Park.
– I have to get it, I won’t stay long, pleeease, I have to see them….
I have heard about the place but I had no idea was in our way that day. So I left Wayan in the parking, to take a nap and I went inside the garden…. I got the entrance ticket and opened the door to what seemed to be a huge greenhouse. A black shadow instantly crossed in front of my eyes, almost touching the tip of my nose. I made a step back. It was huge: a black butterfly just like the one I was chasing in vain the other day. I followed it for a sec and when I finally looked around, all was moving. Not the plants but the hundreds of butterflies. The plants and many flowers around were packed with them. There were about 10 different species, the biggest butterflies I ever saw, black, white, yellow, one almost transparent, blue, orange and black…. I watched each specie closer, observing every little detail. It was heaven, and an empty one since just me 5 other people were inside. Time has then stopped as I let myself carried out by this butterfly magic.
Inside the greenhouse, hidden in the back, was another greenhouse, smaller and much darker, with little windows and no plants inside. Hmm… I went there. Wow! Cages filled with cocoons were covering whole the place. A worker was sitting on the ground, picking the cocoons from a big pile of leaves, putting them all together in a basket. We exchanged smiles and he points silently to one of the cages. I got closer and witnessed life and beauty in the making: a few butterflies were just hatching, trembling and slowly stretching their crumpled young wings to a new life, that of a few days only. In a far corner, separated from the others, I noticed something moving. I got closer, determined not to scream and embarrass myself if I will get attacked by that beast. Cause that’s what it looked like. I was so introduced to the majestic Atlas Moth, the largest in the world, with its wingspan reaching up to 25cm. An absolute wonder with large velvet wings. It surely looked intimidating for someone like me, who’s afraid of anything larger then a fly, but hearing that it has no mouth, I felt encouraged. It lives up to 2 weeks, relying only on its body fat, and it’s a nature’s wonder. Holding it in my palm, completely covered by its gorgeous wings, feeling its trembling fading slowly as it fell asleep in my hand, feeling its weight was simply magical! I truly had the butterfly effect, right there, in my palm.
This corner of paradise stands as a conservation centre for many species of butterflies of Bali, housing many of those also protected by law. I left the Butterfly Park happier.
On the way to Besakih Temple
I was still thinking weather to go or not see a healer, the balance being rather closer to no then yes, when we stopped at a gas station. The road was a straight black line splitting in half the rice fields. On one side a row of high palm trees was mirroring into the water as the rice had just started to grow, on the other the crops were ready to be harvested and people were working on the fields. I got closer to a fence to take a better look. Four women were there, with their feet and hands black in the thick mud, carrying large baskets with green rice. One of them saw me. She suddenly stopped and for an instant I felt like a spy. Then she reached her lips with her palm wide opened and released it widely towards the sky with a large kiss sent to me from the green fields, together with a great smile. I answered her back the same way and wave my both hands to them.
– What did you saw there? Wayan asked me in the car.
– I just got a kiss from a few nice ladies.
Wayan didn’t quite understood but also didn’t insist. I was still smiling, looking outside as we drove by villages and rice fields and people. I was collecting visual memories.
Mother Temple in Bali
The most important, the largest and holiest temple of Hindu religion in Bali, sitting still on the slopes of Mount Agung for more then 2000 years. The complex of 23 temples is known as Mother Temple or Besakih. This was the temple I wanted to see most of all!
Wayan had this idea to let me go visit the temples with a local, apparently a friend of his. They know the entrances, are allowed inside anytime, can bring people with them and I can see more with him then with a regular tour, Wayan promised. I suspected it was just a way to help a friend earn some money but I played the game. Still, I didn’t agree to pay what he asked first: 25$. I said 5. Wayan didn’t intervene. We continue and finally I greed to support the locals and be a good visitor and offer 10$. I then read that some people were asked at the official entrance some donations that can go up to 100$. I guess it depends on luck and negotiation skills.
My “guide” was in his 50s, short, slim and suuuper fast. I did my jogging following him through the village, to the secret entrance he knew. He told me about the temple, its history, the big religious festivities it holds throughout the year and about the last time Mount Agung, the volcano, woke up from its sleep covering all in thick volcano ash and damaging parts of the ancient temple. That was 2 weeks prior my visit. Unfortunately then it was a cloudy day and the author of all those damages was hidden in the clouds.
– It can erupt anytime, you know.
I looked towards the place where I knew the imposing volcano was, hoping that day it won’s woke up. Nor many more after for the sake of people there.
We had a 4 legged companion, a dog, my guide’s dog, who kept starting fights with all the dogs we met in our way. We was trespassing following his master. So constantly it was the two of us and 4-5 different dogs fighting and chasing one another around. Quite a noisy apparition in the little village, that made people look outside their yards and windows to see what was happening. Finally the dog gave up when the number of its opponents got to big for him. He looked at us disappointed and finally listened to his master and went back.
The temple was breathtaking. Or should I say the temples… around 80 of them. We passed from one to another, admiring huge shrines, high pagodas with up to 10 layers of roofs each, some smaller but all with their perfect black shapes made of what seemed to be some sort of straws perfectly build together. The Balinese gates, the high and large steps build in black stone and the multitude of statues of gods were giving the place a mystic air. We met almost no other tourists.
– You see their faces, it’s both the good and bad. Just like in every one of us: the good and the bad are part of us in the same time.
From the top of the main structure, Pura Penataran Agung, the Great Temple of State, build in stone, the view was incredible. Temples as far as I could see. A faded line of grey smoke was rising up to the sky in the horizon. Probably a ceremony in one of the temples. A cold breeze from the hights of Mt Agung reminded us that in Bali, the first days of September, the sun sets soon after 6PM se we should hurry to get back.
After the previous experience with the restaurant where Wayan took me the other day, where I actually payed for the view to the rice fields, (which I admit, it was great) rather than the food…. I should have ran from the first sign: large white plates…. this time he listen to my words: local food. We went to the night market in Gianyar, his town, a few minutes drive from Ubud. Chicken satay, for me, of course and it was great. Plus, the atmosphere of eating with locals at one of the long tables covered with red oilcloth that were placed in front of the stalls where roasted piglets and chickens were served as food among hot pans lifted in the air over the high flames or bowls with vegetables waiting for their turn. In front was the food, but the cooking show was in the back.
An unfortunate event has happened as I entered back my chalet: the entrance door became a deadly weapon for a curious lizard that has sneaked inside while I was away. I tried in vain to save the poor creature while Wayan was waiting for me outside, to drop me in the centre of Ubud. I came back really affected by this accident.
I ended the day with a late dinner at Dewa Warung, one of the open space warungs on the main street with bars and pubs in Ubud, listening to traveling stories shared by the people with whom I shared the table. The place was packed with travellers. Another favourite of mine is the nearby warung Biah Biah, where the food is delicious and served on banana leaves, but I like trying more places. The evening shower was just starting when I left so I found shelter under the roof of a store nearby. Huge drops were making people run and the street empty. Ubud is so peaceful on any weather, but rain, rain in particular has a special feel here. I have to say, I like it more then in other places.
It was late when the rain stopped and I could finally walk to my accommodation. I was walking concentrated, trying not to fall since my flip-flops were wet and slippery, when I heard “Hello, dear!”. It was the masseuse who helped me with a late massage the other night, though they were preparing to close. She was from Sumatra and she used to be a man. I wished her good night. I love this, when I travel in a place and get to know some people.
In front of my door was a black spot, an army of huge ants were devouring the poor dead lizard. Nature has turned a tragedy of one into the benefit of others.
Time to leave
I had a few hours left in Udud so I spent them wisely: wandering the streets, buying more silver rings with abalones shell in the market, getting lost among stalls with merchandise and paintings, gazing at the lotus flowers at Lotus Cafe. And finally visiting my relatives. I couldn’t leave without a visit to Monkey Forest. I found the monkeys smarter and more civilised then my human fellas. It was funny to watch the two species with so much in common interacting.
Wayan came an hour late. He had a wedding to attend in his village. After a warm and long good bye with my hosts, we left for Kuta, where I was planning to get my last amazing sunset on the beach and my last delicious chicken satay at Bamboo Corner. The traffic was terrible. When we finally reached Seminyak, it was almost sunset time. I wanted to stop but Wayan kept postpone the moment until we reached Kuta. The sun was gone. I was so disappointed and angry with him. I had one last wish: the chicken satay at Bamboo Corner. We split, he left to park the car and I went to get my last supper in Bali. I tried to contact Wayan again, I couldn’t. My connection was dead. I panicked after a few attempts that we lost each-other and we’ll be late for the airport. I decided not to go to the restaurant until I talk to Wayan to make sure we’re in time. I don’t know why I needed extra assurance. When I finally reached him, he was at Bamboo Corner and had no idea where I was. It took us many more minutes to find each other since he had no idea where McDonald’s in Kuta was. I was now desperate. The sunset was lost, the dinner too, now all I wanted was to catch was my flight. When I finally saw Wayan, all sweaty and desperate, I didn’t wanna kill him anymore. We literally ran to the place where he had parked the car, which was at the end of the world. If I only knew…
– I’m so sorry you lost the sunset. And dinner.
– Yeah, me too.
That was our last conversation until we reached the airport. The trip was a nightmare, we were blocked in the traffic, nothing was moving and the minutes were passing. I was so afraid I will lose my flight to Singapore. The next day I had my flight back home. Miraculously, the car started to move. I got in that plane. And so I left Bali, in a total chaos. Probably the only easier way. It’s always hard to leave a beautiful place. And Bali is special. As the plane took off, I promised myself I will be back.
Good Bye Asia!
My first taste of Asia was phenomenal. Back home, for 3 full weeks, every single night I dreamt I was back there, swimming with green turtles, gazing at skies set on fire at sunsets, defying luck on crazy rides on scooters, tasting new foods, praying at all gods and above all falling in love with the world, our world to explore.
8 months have passed and I was back for the second dose, this time in Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. But about this, soon. The third Asian adventure was about to end today. I should have visited by now the Great Wall of China, be enchanted by sakura season in Japan and finally fly to the Philippines where I had big plans. All these were postponed…
But no matter what, the thrill for the next beautiful place is here. In the heart.
P.S. Yesterday Wayan shared on Facebook photos with his family’s rice field in Gianyar, planted with his own hands. There’s lockdown in Bali too and no work at all now for people living out of tourism, as Wayan. But as always, he’s smiling.
A few days after I arrived back home, I wrote him. We both apologised for the chaos in that last evening. And we stayed in touch since then. I sent him photos with white winter in Europe and he sends back the forever green of Bali. I hope we’ll meet again soon. He still owns me a sunset in Kuta and a chicken satay 😉 The last, as usual, is on me.
First big thing I did that fresh morning was chasing a huge black butterfly through the garden in front of my bungalow. I saw it from the terrace as I was just out of bed and I ran down the stairs in pyjamas. But he was not into photos, apparently, and made my mission an epic fail. After a short hide and seek among the banana trees, he left me for the frangipani flowers up in the trees. The rain shower the night before was a bliss for the lush vegetation around. The scent of frangipani was now spicing the morning. I picked up a white flower and placed it between my fingers, like a ring. I raised my hand up and took a photo with the blue pool in the background, surrounded by the green of the paradisiac Balinese garden. Ahhh… mornings in Bali!
Then, back to life with another spicy breakfast: fried rice, fruits, black tea. The one the day before, with black rice was the only non spicy exception I had in all my trip to Asia. My bungalow neighbour came along the alley. With his frizzy hair and loose clothes he looked like an artist looking for the meaning of life. He asked something in French, I answered back. Hmm… French people, funny how some presume everybody speaks French in Indonesia. Then a voice interrupted my thought:
– Good morning, your driver is here, waiting for you. For that day I had big plans so I arranged this the day before with my host. I abandoned my hot fried rice and ran to meet him.
He was in his late 20s, maybe, though with Balinese people looking so serene, age is quite a riddle. With beautiful Balinese traits reigned my a happy smile and kind eyes. I immediately complimented the sarong he was wearing and he liked that.
– Well, we are going to the temple, soo…. And so I met Wayan.
I insisted he joined me at my table for breakfast, so we can talk more about the plans that day, he did pleased for only 2 minutes, then excused himself and left to wait for me at the entrance. This was inappropriate for him, as he was not a guest, so I let it like this.
The huge Toyota Land Cruiser outside, with beige leather seats and Wayan opening the door for me as my host was waving to us at the gate made me wander again: why would I spent any more cents on holidays in Europe when I can have this for 30$ the whole day??? Asia is definitely perspective changing…
Wander: Tegalalang Rice Terrace
As the first rays of sun were caressing the rice paddies, Wayan and I were already walking on the tiny alleys built between them. Small terraces filled with water, where the rice was growing, were drawing the landscape in perfect lines in tones of green. All shades of green. In some parts the crops were young, like sparse green lines raising from the muddy water, in others thick as hair, completely covering the surface. It’s no wander Tegalalang Rice Paddies is one of the most iconic places in Bali: photographed, posted, Instagrammable and so liked and shared. Wooden cottages in the front and green rice paddies as far as you can see on each side, delimited by coconut trees where the jungle seemed to have taken back what was hers. We went up following the narrow path, while I was taking tens of photos and constantly stopping to take in all that spellbinding beauty and fill my eyes with it… And so we reached the top, where the views all around were spectacular. Such views deserve… a swing, to make the photos look even more spectacular. Sure, someone with initiative thought to give a hand for more Instagram likes, install the swing and start a business asking for a fee. And, boy, that fee was pricey! Wayan tried to negotiate for me. It didn’t worked out, the owner of the swing kept his price. I also tried, with no success. So I used my last negotiation weapon: the leaving technique. The owner didn’t even glimpse.
– God damn it, I can’t make peace at all with this guy!!! I told Wayan, half amused and half pissed off.
– I thought you really don’t want to pay and you want to leave….
– Sure I don’t want to pay but I want that damn expensive swing! Let’s go back, I’ll pay, whatever! It’s not like I do a swing over the rice paddies every day.
With my deepest philosophy of life when it comes to high prices, we went back. I payed the price but told the owner he’s a stubborn guy and he’d better not drop me down there, tens of meters down, cause for sure I’ll be back and haunt him for the rest of his life. We all laughed, after all, this was Bali, all here is about truly living. I was being prepared to be launched up high in the air, into the rice paddies abyss. Wayan got my phone, he was in charge of the photos. The first swing blocked my breath: it was sooo up high! But the views conquered all fears. The next one was even higher and my hands turned grey as they clenched around the ropes of the swing. From the third, I finally enjoyed it: the wind in my hair, the air above my feet, the speed, the fresh scent and the top views of Tegalalang Rice Paddies. And so, Bali swing was checked out of my to do experiences and the photos Wayan took were fab!
Now other tourists were starting to wander around and the feeling that the place was ours entirely vanished. The magic left, the beauty stayed. Two women came to the swing, they made a long face hearing the price and started a shy negotiation attempt. No success. I slowly whispered one of them: “I tried too, he’s stubborn as a mule.” And so they payed.
As we followed the path back, I asked Wayan a few practical questions, like how much rice can you get from a 3m long parcel, how many crops you can have in a year, what processes are needed, what happens when the rice is mature enough to be harvested. An interesting fact: the land belongs to the state and it’s being rented to people so they can use it to grow rice.
Believe: Pura Tirta Empul – the holy springs and the ritual of purification
Besides beauty, the next feeling that is omnipresent in Bali is the spirituality. For a thousand years, Balinese Hindu worshipers and people from all over the world and of all religions have been drawn to Pura Tirta Empul (Holy Water Temple) where the sacred springs, said to be created by The God Indra, are believed to possess healing and magical powers.
The temple from the outside looks as it’s trying to keep the secret of what’s inside. As we passed the entrance, the story unfolds. The beautiful architecture brings back the old times into the present, with Hindu Gods carved into the dark grey stones, the decorations and most of all the silence around impose a deep sense of respect for traditions, history and spirituality. First think was changing my dress with a green sarong surrounded by a red sash. This was provided at the entrance, for 10k, only for those wishing to perform the water purification ritual, which of course I was going to and which includes offerings, meditation, prayers, bathing process, water drinking directly from the springs and in the end taking the time to figure out how all these made you feel. Here’s how it goes melukat, the purification ritual:
Purification Ritual at Tirta Empul Temple
To do it properly, meaning do as the locals do. Start with an offering to the gods in the first section of the temple, called Jaba Pura. The small square plate made of dry palm leaves contains rice, leaves, even sweets, colourful flowers, stick of incense and can be bought as it is. Or, you can prepare it yourself and get more involved in the process.
Next, in the section Jaba Tengah, there are 3 pools with 22 water spouts in total. The first and biggest has 13, next 3 and 6. Start with the first, from the left, from the second spout, skip no1 as it is for children under 10 (though many use no1 also) and no 11 and 12, which are destined for rituals performed for the dead, which are cleansed immediately after they pass away, as an essential part of their preparation for the after life. In front of every spout repeat this ritual: join hands, recite 3 times the mantra “Ooom”, rinse your head and face with water 3 times for body and soul cleansing then drink 3 times and spit out that water (eliminate the negative). Then again drink 3 times and this time swallow, it is said to be for healing. It’s all related to no 3: the 3 gods: Vishnu, Brahma, Shiva. In the end put your forehead under the water, for protection. This will be repeated to all the other spouts, 2-10 and 13.
Go to the second pool, which is about karma, repeat from left to right in front of every of the 3 spouts, just as before.
Go to the 3rd pool, which is believed to cleanse the body of any illness. This time start from the end, from right to the left. The last spout, the one in the left here, is believed to be the most powerful, The Tirta Empul, which gave the name to the temple. here some say the ritual should be done 7 times. And that’s it. Relax after.
Truth is, I found so many contradicting information about how the ritual should be done correctly, like weather to drink or not the water or that women should tie the hair or even about which spouts should be used and how…. The best is to ask a local there who seem knowledgeable and willing to help in change for a tip. Even so, probably some parts will be “adapted” on the way.
In conclusion: I did drink the water. More then 2 years have passed since and I’m alive. Thinking about the fish in the pool where the springs come from the ground, not to mention the ritual involving the dead….this might sound crazy. Still, at that moment, I was somehow absorbed into the energy of the place and thought more about karma then the bacteria in the water. I don’t know if the feel I got in the end was due to the water, a bit cold and so refreshing. Or was due to the good night sleep or the vitamins in the breakfast, etc…. but I felt different: lighter, as if my bodyweight had suddenly reduce, my mind was free from all concerns and a positivity had wrapped my spirit. I don’t know what, but there’s something about that place. Although the purification ritual I have performed was far from what’s called right, I left Tirta Empul filling truly and deeply purified, body and spirit.
Indulge: the waterfalls – Tibumana and Tukad Cepung
The sight of a guy that had just suffered a scooter fall brought me back to reality. He was literally skinned on a large portion of his hip, his bum and hand. He was with 3 other friends, just parking their scooters, walking in his underwear while with a hand he was holding up the material of his underwear, revealing his completely skinned butt cheek. It was indeed a hard core view that stayed in my mind, related to all past and future scooter rides.
We followed a path through the jungle. Gosh how green it was! The first waterfall we stopped to was smaller but the landscape around made it look as if we were on a deserted island, somewhere in the promised paradise. I have a thing for waterfalls and Bali is the place to go for people with “my obsession”. There’s something in their power and how nature looks untouched in their surroundings as if waterfalls are ancient guardians of its beauty. Besides all the rice paddies, the temples, the beaches… the OMG factor in Bali are its waterfalls. We took a few photos as I was sitting 2m away from that little one and in a few seconds I was soaking wet under that natural shower.
Next was Tibumana waterfall. We walked deeper into the jungle, passing by durian trees with thorny fruits hanging down the branches, banana trees carrying their huge red flowers and cocoa trees. We followed the stairs and the curtain of vegetation soon revealed a nature’s wonder: the Tibumana waterfall. Words are powerless. It was an irresistible invitation for a memorable swim.
As I was completely charmed by the place, Wayan left me and went a bit further to talk to a friend of his he met there. I later joined them. The place by the river was fill with zen stones, I noticed them immediately and approached a few which needed a closer look.
– Hi does all these, you see, Wayan told me.
– You mean all those zen stones sticked together with I don’t know what king of glue? It’s impossible otherwise, I joked.
It seemed indeed impossible but yet those zen stones by the Tibumana waterfall in Bali that day of September were mocking all Physics lows we know. I checked them one by one from each angle. My conclusion:
– I got not idea how you do it! We all laugh.
– You know except a few, they resisted even the earthquake two weeks ago.
He meant the earthquake that killed nearly 500 people in Lombok that year, the island close to Bali, and was seriously felt in Bali too.
We left, him with me convinced he’s some sort of Hindu magician 🙂
The wonder: Tukad Cepung
If I only knew what was next….The photos that led me to this waterfall showed maybe 1% of it’s true beauty. That 1% made me really wanting to see it, so I was prepared to see another beautiful place in Bali, but not the best waterfall I ever saw. I few minutes of not so easy trekking through the jungle… The vegetation got wilder and thicker, the path steeper, in some parts very slippery. It seemed this one was hidden well, deep into the jungle. High trees carrying large lianas pouring down the walls. It was like a corridor left once by a large powerful river that in time got smaller, a long narrow passage with straight walls meters high, on top of which the lush vegetation was exploding, sending bits of it down to us through the lianas.
It got darker, the sky was now just a small blue line above our heads, sending little light down there. It was unbelievable, nature couldn’t get more exotic then this, I told Wayan. Water was pouring down those walls like curtains of small, almost invisible waterfalls. It was extremely humid, which very well explains the vegetation so dense inside the passage. I climbed a huge rock for a photo. Got a few scratches, totally worth the sight from the top. We arrived to a cave, passed through it and got out in the light again when I felt small particles of water touching my face like a wind. We followed the river and entered another cave, bigger, and behind its walls, we heard the echo of some voices. A few steps further the waterfall revealed its wonder.
A straight curtain of water was pouring down, from the green of the jungle and the blue of the sky to the dark of the cave. One more problem: it was packed with people, Instagrammers like, turning the place into a never-ending photoshoot. But as patience is always rewarded, I somehow felt the right moment might come. And it did. As by magic, at one point everybody left, one by one. I quickly went back again, inside the cave, walked closer, paying attention to the slippery rocks in the water. I got drenched even at many meters away from the fall. It was now all mine… No other sound but the water falling. I raised my hands to the sky, closed my eyes and let thousands of water drops fall on my face, covering me like I was part of it. It left like I was flying in another world. A few seconds later I opened my eyes again, preparing to leave and I saw Wayan was not the only one saving my moment into a photo for later. A few guys with real cameras were taking a few shots too. One said to me to wait a bit more there as he did a few more. I didn’t mind, it wasn’t me the subject, I just addend a touch of yellow to an already perfect place.
Feel: my first Balinesse massage
After such a day of wonders Wayan and I went back to Ubud, planning the next day and talking about his family, about the famous healers and the Balinese food. I was too happy to be tired. I had one more thing to try: a Balinese massage. I picked one place randomly on a street in Ubud. Light music, candles, petals… A lady came and offered me a tea while she prepared the place. So after a day where every cell of my soul was moved, it was time for my body to feel the same process. Fists, fingers, elbows, she took care of every muscle and bone. That pain was good. Made me feel I was alive and happy in Ubud.
“Was just another day for only me in Paradise”… if I can reinterpret Phil Collins song.
The sound of the rain drops touching the large leaves of the jungle. From all the wonders of Ubud, this simple memory is my favorite. It’s my ticket back there every time I close my eyes and think about that beautiful place.
The start of September is still dry season In Bali, but that green needs rain. So in all the evenings I have spent in Ubud, rain came to visit the town and gave it a little fresh good night kiss.
It was past 11pm in a rainy evening when a taxi stopped in front on almost hidden gate, on one of the few main roads in Ubud, close to the huge white statue of Arjuna, the Hindu God, at the intersection of Jalan Raya Ubud and Jalan Raya Andong.
Two people and a big suitcase came out, laughing a bit too loud for the quiet around. I was ending a 2h great conversation with my taxi driver, a father of 5 who was so kind to drive me to Ubud at that late hour. We shoke hands as the gate opened and he saw I was now in good hands, with my new host. I entered following the young man who opened the gate and a wave of frangipani perfume surrounded me in the dark, as an irresistible invitation to enter. It was all black at first but little by little the surroundings were revealing: first I saw a few small shrines with Hindu Gods statues and offerings, then a small paved alley, which we followed, passing by a small pond covered with water lilies, then huge white frangipani trees, after a small pool hidden behind a dense curtain of banana trees… and finally the whole garden in its full beauty magically protected by the dark. A “WOW” escaped my lips… Alice in Wonderland couldn’t have felt more charmed then myself in this paradise like place!
Another host came, a little older man, wearing a green sarong around his waist and a white turban on the head. Smiling, he welcomed me with a Balinese bow.
– Welcome! Your bungalow is waiting for you.
I couldn’t hide my surprise and enchantment when he showed me a 2 levels high wooden bungalow, with a large white canopy bed, two bathrooms, two large terraces, one at the entrance facing the jungle and one in the front, to the pool and garden. The windows were of glass only at the first level, all the rest was opened to fresh air that so took the freedom to wonder freely inside. There aren’t many things I love more then sleeping in opened air… It was perfect! I was expecting a room in a bungalow and I got a palace instead. For less then 10 euro per night this made me wonder what reasons I still have to spent any more holidays somewhere else.
Next thing I had to deal with was a very tangled situation: trying to save my hair from a short cut the next day. The swim in the rough sea and a two hours scooter ride earlier that day left my long blond hair looking as a complicated nest of some sort of bird. It felt unfixable… When I arrived, I throw a glance on the list of services from a beauty saloon I saw inside the garden, just in case I needed to pay them a visit next morning, to fix my hair with the scissors. It was that bad! But miraculously, a long cold shower saved it and the bird’s nest was gone. Feeling fresh and happy I submerged in a deep sleep, hearing the song of the last drops of rain falling on the leaves.
Day 1 Ubud revealed
My condensed marathon in Asia was planned to end in Ubud, with a well deserved quiet time. So in the 1st day I woke up late. An arrow of light have found its way in through the opened windows, straight through the curtains of my canopy bed and finally reaching my hand. Now, in the morning light, all my excitement about that place and its garden from the night before suddenly grew 1000 times more. As I jumped out of bed and went out on the first terrace, the jungle said “hello” in all its green beauty, with unknown sounds and scents. Then I crossed the room, opened the door and ran on the other terrace, this time the garden said “hi there”, with its blue pool as the only contrast in a sea of green, banana trees in bloom, frangipani… Perfection!
Breakfast was served in the middle of the garden, by the small pond covered with water lilies, where a few koi fish were now awake. Black rice, fresh fruits and black tea! A rare and delicious occasion when food was now spicy, an exception since I arrived in Asia.
Ubud, a place I heard so many things, was out there, waiting for me. I followed the little street outside my accommodation and in minutes I was walking the main street in Udub, with shops, restaurants, coffee places, temples and ohh so many tourists. The place was pretty touristy but definitely had its charm and though I do not believe much in the influence of energies, if there is a place on earth that could change this view, it’s Bali, for sure. That peace and perfect serenity can’t only be related to its beauty and green, there’s something more about this place…
My culinary adventure continued as well, I bought a few pieces of all the fruits I found on my way that I have never seen before, sold by people near the market, out of big baskets. I fed on the curiosity in their eyes every time they hurry to cut into pieces a fruit I said I have never tried before, to have me taste it right there and see my reaction. I payed back every gesture of generosity with great excitement and a small quantity I bought. My favourite was by far snakefruit, because of the texture and its taste that reminds me both of pineapple and pomplemousse.
And so, tasting fruits I found the market in Ubud, with huge paintings, carvings, all sorts of art pieces. I totally lost any track of time there, buying bracelets made of lava and silver rings in geometrical shapes with abalones mother of pearl. I did what I like best: wander, without a map, a direction or any time constrainment. I entered each of the temples I found on my way, wore a sarong inside provided from the entrace, admire all the details inside and sneak peak to see people praying or bringing offerings and lighting candles.
I found a hidden alley with a sign and I thought: why not… I walked away from the street, among backyards, following a narrow path by a small dirty river in a very underground area, I passed by a durian tree with big durians hanging down and out of the blue, all was green in front of my eyes. I remembered a post from a friend who was in Ubud once, saying about the rice paddies there, a hidden place that can be found somewhere behind Lotus coffee. Happily there was no one there except 2-3 people working on the paddies far away.
A little path with high coconut treen was splitting this endless green in half, huge squares of paddies on each side, a small broken cottage on the right, a man crossing the way, carrying buckets and tools, his feet and arms black, covered in mud after a working morning. He sends a smile, I answer the same way. I kept looking back, then turn around, then again black, trying to capture all details of this beautiful place. The sun was up, turning the fields into mirrors where clouds were reflecting and the blue sky was turned into silver.
At the end of the alley I found a warung, Sweet Orange seemed to be the name. I could use a light lunch so I entered…. The small terrace inside, with views to the rice paddies, was decorated with coconuts husk faces and Balinese art pieces. I took a seat at one small wooden wound table, on a wooden chair and ordered fried noodles with chicken but asked if they could keep the meat away and a dragon fruit smoothie. I enjoyed my delicious lunch while watching two women in the front, working on the rice paddies with the feeling that I will later remember this moment as one of the best places for lunch in my life. And that I can now confirmed it happened multiple times.
I went back on the busy streets of Ubud where a durian ice-cream tempted me this time. The place had its walls ceiling packed with small yellow lizards which first looked as a cook wallpaper. Only it was one full of life. The sunset time found me wandering the Campuhan Ridge Walk, a famous spot, which I also found by chance. Funny how this happens each time we dedicate the time and patience to a place and we choose to enjoy without a map. The incredible green of Ubud on this side got me in love head over… flip-flops, as I walked by the jungle, among other people, tourists or locals, on one famous cobbled path heading far from the city’s madding crowds of tourists, bikes, cars…
And finally, a day painted in green ended in flames… It started with an invitation handed on the street, in front of a temple, by a boy. It was about the fire dance that was supposed to take place in exact one hour, inside a temple nearby. A chance to catch the story presented in this show from the beginning, not almost the end as in Uluwatu. So not to be missed. I bought one ticket from him and when the time came I took a sit on one of the wooden benches inside the temple’s yard. The fire dance, known as Kecak, began. The performance mixes acting and dancing in beautiful costumes and it narrates the story of Asia’s most epic, Ramayana. Gods, a prince and a princess, a fight between good and bad that ends with a jaw dropping performance: a barefoot dance on hot coals left behind a huge fire made of dry coconuts. As the rhythm grows, the moves intensify and smoke and fire and sparks of light are filling the air in front of an audience left speechless. In the end, woken up from that magic by the frenetic applauses, I had a moment of truth thinking and realising: I am in Ubud!
A late dinner with chicken satay and tongue killing hot peanut sauce, (what else)…, in a warung recommended by a policeman – not for hungry reasons but rather for craving reasons, a raw Balinese chocolate tasting and a late rain shower that found me back in my perfect bungalow. That’s how my day in Ubud ended. Listening to all the raindrops hitting the vegetation around, hoping that the insects and the lizards will stay away of my bed.
I fell asleep thinking why don’t we live all days like that, refusing to stay awake for the answer.
I’m telling you this: Everyone would be a morning person on his first day in Bali. Including myself. I was up, fresh, anxious to go.
Walking on the small alley, across the garden, still quite blind at that early hour, I almost stepped on something that looked at first like a little bunch of everything. I couldn’t quite tell what it was and why was it right in my path. Little baskets, the seize of a palm, made of dry leaves and filled with rice, frangipani flowers, candies or other foods, decorated with incense sticks that were spreading a strong scented smoke in the morning air, were placed on the ground. Everywhere, so I had to make a last second jump to avoid one. In the front I saw a small shrine representing a god, with more of these stuff around. Of course! Those must have been offerings prepared by the people for the Hindu Gods. In Bali these offerings are called canang sari.
The taxi driver from the night before was waiting outside, to take me to Sanur, for the ferry to Nusa Penida island. What a nice morning as Kuta was waking up! On the way I saw what a serious thing those offerings are in Bali. They were literally everywhere, in front of every house, restaurant, big temples, small temples, shrines, even by the roads. And the next abundant thing were the scooters. Thousands of them, showing already the signs of the mad traffic later in the day.
My taxi driver helped me find an exchange office. This was the 4th Asian currency in 10 days, so, damn, I was totally lost in exchange when it came to Indonesian money. We then reached the jetty, I got my tickets and headed by myself to the beach where the boat was waiting. By the way, a very ugly, muddy and dirty beach with waters looking like 3 days old tea. But the mood was something else. People from every corner of the world were there, and not a single posh looking one. It was a very laid back atmosphere, as if each of us knew a fabulous day was to start. Serene faces, probably my first contact with the Bali effect.
Nusa Penida’s wow mood
One hour later I stepped on the beach in Nusa Penida. Tens of scooter drivers were waiting in front of the jetty. Scooter taxi. In a few seconds, most of them have left with clients. Some tourists were renting scooters and I wished I had the guts to do that too. I said my ok to the first guy with a scooter who stopped me, after a short eye scan to make sure he looks safe. I agreed the price on the spot and we left. Later in the evening I learned I payed him 3 times what was usually the price. Some lessons needed to be learned.
In a few seconds we left the jetty and the beach behind and we rode on narrow bumpy streets, passed through small villages, by bannanas plantations, small warung (the small businesses that offer food everywhere you look in Bali). In some parts, too many maybe, people have left their marks on the island, a lot of construction going on, in others the landscape was still untouched and nature was winning, covering everything with a vibrant jungle green. The breeze smell like happiness and peace.
– Will you take me to Manta Point? I wasn’t sure if he didn’t hear me or he didn’t know the place. My scooter driver who’s name I couldn’t pronounce after 3 attempts so I gave up, didn’t answer.
After a while we stopped in a small village, his village as he said and he excused himself for a few minutes. Meanwhile I saw some towers, the Balinese kind and decorations behind a high concrete wall. Probably another temple, I thought, like the so many that made my head turn on the way, so I just headed there straight, on a narrow path between locals houses. I found a large gate and entered, amazed by the beauty of what seemed to be a small temple. A shrine inside was decorated with fresh flowers and plenty of offerings. Was beautiful and so peaceful. This until the very next second when I was running out the gate, as a barking angry pit-bull was chasing me. Dear God! Who keeps pit-bulls in temples? I stopped running only after I was out in the street.
– Dogs in a temples….chasing people… I mumbled while meeting my friend driver, pretending I was relaxed but I was as scared as hell.
– Yeees, home temples, many people have so they can honour the gods in their home and so protect it. And so I found out about home temples and that I was actually trespassing someone’s property. Bali was an island of surprises.
My now friend presented me his brother and they exchange the scooters. Apparently ours was broken and needed to be fixed. We continued our journey.
– Do you know where Manta Point is? I started once again…
– Yes, but you can’t drive there, only boat…
– Then how can we get there?
– We will, I show you.
Broken Beach
We stopped in a scooter parking, actually a very dusty place where everybody left their scooters. We followed a path like everybody else and soon the blue sea was drawing the horizon in front of us.
An Asian woman, dressed in a long translucent dress, totally out of place for where we were, carrying a heavy makeup case from one place to another, was driving her 2 friends crazy while she was posing like a celebrity on the very edge of the cliff, miming what looked like some sort of Titanic scene. So this is how instagrammers die for a photo, I thought. I was in flip-flops, shorts and t-shirt, wearing only sunscreen on my face. Couldn’t care less but the place looked like a photo shooting set. There were more of that woman’s specie around, men too…..
Instead I climbed a dry tree around, one with a funny shape, that my driver lead me to for a nice shot. The Broken Beach was like a window formed on one side of the shore with high straight walls ending down into the rough waves. The high cliffs were reaching far in what was an impressive 180′ landscape. Angel Billabong’s natural pool carved by the waves into the rocks, was a crystal clear green wander, opening to the blue sea. The salty breeze was caressing my skin. It was perfect with one, I was hungry. I was too busy to eat since the night before.
My driver friend came carrying a paper bag with something fried, hot and oily inside. I remembered about Bali belly and how I should avoid funny foods… Maybe just a bite so I won’t refuse him as a rude person. Ohoo… and that one bite was just the start. Those were mango fritters, slices of mango fried in some sort or crust, very popular in Bali, mostly with bananas. With mango, trust me, are divine. I ate them all, I forgot about any Bali bely, I could die after and be happy.
Crystal Bay
Another scooter ride and we arrived on a beautiful alley with high palm trees on each side. The path was becoming sandy as it touched the beach in the front. This was finally a nice beach. Sandy, clean, crystal blue sea. It was also a starting point for Manta Point but at that hour of the day I could only take a private boat for 60$. Too much! I tried to negotiate, it didn’t work.
My friend insisted I could still see some manta ray if I swim there, further from the shore. If I was lucky. He also promised it’s a place great for snorkelling. I left my clothes on an area where there were not so many people, close to the rocks, where a small brook was rushing from the island to the sea. The sand was covered with small fragments of corals, polished by the waves. From here I could see the entire beach, guarded by a curtain of palm trees, with a few boats near the shore, with the beach bar, with a few guys selling green coconuts to the people on the beach. I couldn’t wait for a swim after all the dust on the way. I swim far away from the shore, did some snorkelling, saw some nice corals and fish. Nothing wow and no manta ray around for sure. After about an hour, I decided that was it, to get back to the beach. I started swimming back when I realised the water was getting shallow, too shallow and I got in an area surrounded by corals. Sharp corals. This didn’t seem ok at all. I tried to find a place where the water was deeper as I was almost touching the corals while swimming. This means serious bruisers as these creatures are as fragile as rough. I tried to move very slowly. Not no mention that I had no indention of harming one, as these beauties grow 1cm in a year. But the currents were nasty and since I was approaching the beach the waves got stronger. At one point one just rolled over me and for a sec I totally lost it. I was starting to be quite scared. I looked back, another wave was coming so I moved as fast as I could. Happily and miraculously I got to the shore, exhausted but not bleeding at all.
Riding a scooter with a salty wet hair in the middle of Nusa Penida, after a well lived day, this is something to live for. Only one thing was bothering me: the manta ray I didn’t got to see. This wish was now growing to obsession.
I got back to the jetty right in time to get the boat back to Sanur. My taxi driver from that morning was no where to be found, though he has promised to wait for me there. I looked for him for about 15min and then got another one. The ride back to Kuta took forever! I so learned another Bali lesson: never a car taxi, always a scooter taxi, as thousands of scooters passed by us constantly while we were blocked in that hell traffic jam. The sunset was soon happening and I was still far away from the beach. Every minutes was like forever, I felt like running.
– I think will be better if I leave you here, if we drive will take more then an hour.
I jumped out of the taxi and literally started running, hoping the direction was correct. But somehow, I always get the right way to any beach. It seemed a never-ending street completely blocked with cars, scooters, people moving, with restaurants and stores on each side, music in one side, traffic jam noise everywhere. It was a madness! But in spite all that… all was orange. Incredibly orange! Never seen before orange! Sunset was happening! Too many people walking too slow! I finally saw the gates to the beach, Kuta beach. And as I finally entered the beach was like I stepped into another dimension.
The biggest sunset display, one like I have never seen before, a 180′ wonder made me stop in awe. The sun was gone now but the horizon and the whole sky was in fire. So this was the famous sunset in Kuta, so praised and talked about. I believed it myself. It’s one of a hell fire sunset, burning Kuta out and send it straight to the night vibes of summer partying in Bali. Amazing!
Next: obsessively searching the manta rays in Nusa Penida
My Beautiful Places 