Markets, temples, scams but great food

Day 1:
I opened the small iron gate and entered the interior yard. I left behind the uproar of the street and I took a glimpse through the small window of the Thai restaurant’s kitchen. I climbed the stairs with the last drops of energy. That damn heat gave me a checkmate. I arrived at my door and suddenly I woke up from the drowsiness: the light inside was on. It’s not possible to be so stupid and let it open all day, I thought. I’m always careful to close the AC while away but I let the lights on… I switch the key and push the door. I startled: a woman was inside my room, laid on the bed! I went straight to her:

– Who are you? What are you doing in my room?

Morning in Phuket

After a 12h flight, that morning I landed in Phuket. Since I don’t do holidays like normal people and instead I turn all trips into marathons, I took a next flight to Bangkok. I saved the beach for later. Later meaning 2 other countries later…
While waiting for the 3rd flight in 24h all I had to do was… people watching. Lots of very petite women of all ages and all pretty, many foreigners men with way too young girls, a few transgender men, backpackers and lots of cute kids.

Afternoon in Bangkok

I was greeted by the capital with the most unbearable heat and humidity, around 33C and over 80% humidity. A taxi drove me to my cheap guesthouse close to Khaosan Road, e few minutes from Ratchadamnoen Road, the wide boulevard heading to the Grand Palace. About 7 euros per night for a room with 6 beds inside and, thank God, a life saving AC.

I let my stuff in the room and went out for a discovery walk. The moment I stepped outside, I was all drenched in my own sweat. My clothes, my skin, my hair. Wet. But I was going to get used to this sensation fast and the busy street made me immediately part of the city. Plenty of small restaurants around where food was being cooked in boiling water, hot oil, huge pans and apparently no bother for hygiene. Asia was still new to me back then. End of April 2019. It was my second time in SE Asia and my second time outside Europe. I knew nothing. Thai food was new to me as well. My perceptions were about to change drastically that very evening.
Shrines of all kind, small, larger, or huge golden Buddha statues for sale by the road, Buddhist monks walking barefoot in their orange ropes. My head was spinning to see all the show around.
I crossed the large street and headed to Khaosan Road right when the sun was saying good bye on the pinkest sky. The lights, the tuk-tuks, the horns, the steams from the hot pans, the flavors and the people from all over the world, all in a blue hour rush. It was so entertaining to watch. A lady was selling fried tarantulas, scorpions on a stick and crispy silkworms. I paid and she let me took some pics. That’s how it works. A few meters further a crocodile was on a grill, parts of one leg already served. I walked up and down the street as it was getting darker and busier. The pink turned blue and after dark on the sky. I was a mix of jetlag, excitement and hunger.
Everybody was sipping, chewing, licking fingers around. After all, food is what made Khaosan Road that famous. But what to choose when I didn’t now what was cooking. Hunger helped me pick one free spot following the golden rule of the crowd in front. A metal table and a vacant red small plastic chair.

– Hello, love, what shall I bring for you? I liked that he was more dressed up than me, red nails and red lipstick. And a fair smile. I liked him instantly.

– Tom Yum soup please.

Cause that was all I knew about Thai food back then. I heard many times about that dish but had never tried it, soo…
A few minutes later, after a wink and a “There you are, sweetheart, enjoy!” the soup was on the table, burning hot and I was going to experience a revolution. Of taste. First taste was like coconut met lime and vanilla meet caramel, sweet and sour in the same time, very spicy and just enough salty. Oh my God! That first sip ended in a long Hmmm….Up till today that was the best Tom Yum I ever had. I got courageous and ordered more food, some rice and meat dish after. Also delicious. I instantly stopped seeing the lack of hygiene all around and instead I saw some of the best foods all around. Those flavors and scents from ingredients being thrown in the hot pans, flames rising up and people enjoying this pure basic pleasure of eating. Amazing combinations of ingredients resulting in great never tried before taste. After I walked up and down that street and tried Thai deserts, exotic fruits, smoothies.

Midnight: Resurrection service at the Russian Orthodox church

I had this idea: to attend the Resurrection service as the next day, back home, was celebrated Easter. I searched for an Orthodox church. I found one. At the outskirts of Bangkok. I found a taxi after no tuk-tuk agreed to go that far. I negotiated the price. And off we were. I had no clear idea where I was going. The trip proved to be a nightmare. We got stuck in the traffic, as we left the downtown many streets were under construction. After more than an hour I finally saw on the map the destination getting closer. When we entered up on a dark street with villas where I could only hear dogs barking outside, I concluded we’re lost. The driver thought I was crazy to bring him into nowhere. I was blaming Google… Then I saw a light and a door was opening. It was the church. Thank God! I asked him to walk with me a few meters, there were stray dogs barking outside. I opened a huge wooden door to enter a room invaded of candles light. It was a Russian church and the resurrection service had already started. All women had their heads covered. In my country this is not the norm so I stepped forward feeling many curious eyes. I understood nothing since it was in Russian but I felt in peace. It was beautiful. I realized I forgot my candle in the room… A man saw me searching my pockets in despair and he indicated a corner. I bought a red candle there. I got the light from a person next to me. And like this Jesus Christ was resurrected. In Bangkok, at the end of a long trip, after a long day, in a fully spiritual night.
I paid to the taxi driver way more than we first agreed, it was fair this way. I got back to my room and I slept for the very first time with the AC on. It was that hot.

Day 2:

6am Bangkok seen from a tuk-tuk felt fresh and promising. Was a good day to make great memories. I saw my face in the mirror, sitting in the back and smiling. The city was already up. People rushing in tens of tuk-tuks and motorbikes. The heat was still bearable now and the air less polluted. I felt the breeze on my face. I love these simple moments, away from everything, when I feel like all I have is all I need.
The bus station where the trip ended was busy: tourists, taxi drivers, tuk-tuks. Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and Mae Klong Railway Market were on my traveling menu that morning.
The price I knew from the internet travel blogs made the few taxi drivers laugh out loud. I also laughed at their price. But since I wasn’t there for laughing, I got worry that my plan was failing. If I don’t find an option, what will I do next?! I took a few steps away, thinking, when one man came towards me and whispered:

– How much you want to pay?

– Tell me a price that is ok for you too ….

We had a deal on the price and itinerary and a few minutes later we left the city behind. I was proud of myself for not taking an organized tour and solving this.
He wasn’t talkative like me, so I let him drive and I was happy to look outside. The 1st stop was Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. I was dreaming to see this place after all the images I saw on Instagram.

– 4000 baht (about 100 euro) for one person, the boat takes you to…

– Sorry, what… how much?

– 4000 and…

– Noo, noo, thanks. I stood up to leave. I was getting mad only hearing this price!

– This is the only way to get to the floating market, lady…ok, 3000 baht, let’s go….

– Ok, I will not go to any market.

– You came here and you won’t go?

– Exactly!

I asked my taxi driver and he confirmed, that was the only way to the market. By boat! What the hell… I thought I read about people getting there by bus but wasn’t sure anymore, I read so much stuff about Bangkok before coming. Everybody I asked after said the same, that was the only way. I wanted to leave and I was upset, I didn’t want to pay, but the market was so close and I traveled so far and it’s a must see and… All those thoughts. A lady approached me and said: 2000 baht, I take you there but don’t tell them.

– I won’t pay 2000…
I ended up paying what was equal to around 30 euro. But I was still upset and I was soon going to be crazy mad.
I got in the boat with two other people. A water channel, a few dwellings by the water, tropical vegetation, bla, bla, pretty but nothing special. Then a few open stores by the water, one selling paintings. Than a few boats started to appear, mostly women selling veggies, fruits, ice-cream, deserts. The heart of the market had a few concrete steps on a side where people were enjoying different foods they had bought from the stalls around or from the boats. A few log boats were floating around. I took many photos. It was getting more interesting.

And then I raised my head and I saw in front a large concrete bridge over the water and cars passing! So it was possible to get to the famous floating market by car, free and I was scammed badly, taken for a fool. I got so angry and I couldn’t wait to get back to those liars.
I guy was holding a small primate, some monkey, for photos when we got back to the jetty and handed the poor captive creature to me.

– No more money, set it free and you go to work…
The taxi driver was waiting for me smiling and I was boiling. I started on the way to the car:

– My friend, I know I am a tourist. You see me as a bag of money. But I come from a country where what you did today happens all the time. So I know a scam when I see a scam. I know what you did. I saw the bridge. I now know I could have got to the market by car not boat only, as you all sait. You let me pay for a stupid tour. Ok, that’s it but no more scams for today, please. Ok? Or I won’t need you anymore to get back to Bangkog.
I was so mad I could have walked to Bangkok for days if I had to. My friend understood the message very well. Next he propose to take me as a bonus to Taling Chan market, another floating market but less touristy, placed by the shores of Mekong. Not far and more quiet.
I had lunch there, sitting on concrete steps, food cooked in front of me, on a boat and served on banana leaves. I was fascinated how the lady managed the grill and fire on the boat and was cooking fresh seafood like in the best kitchen in the world. Fried calamari and a sour & spicy sauce and sugar cane juice to drink. I still remember the feel of tranquility and the still waters of Mekong.
On the way to the car we passed by a beautiful old lady selling sticky rice cooked in bamboo sticks. I got the forbidden one, black. Hot and delicious!
A minutes drive after we we arrived in Mae Klong Railway Market, the famous market crossed by a train. We just got there and I saw a crowd of people on both sides, with phones in their hands. In the front I saw how the sellers were wrapping the roofs on the sides, one by one, finally revealing in the front, at a few tens of meters, the train. I heard “photo, photo, quick!” My now friend taxy driver brought me back to reality. The train was slowly approaching. I jumped on the lines, laughing and looking back to the train. He got a perfect shot, in a move with my pony tail in the air. I jumped on one side back and the train was at 30m away now. When it got closer I felt a hand pushing me closer to the wall. A Spanish girl was so terrified by how close the train was that she felt the need to protect me. We looked one another and started laughing, no words were needed, we shared a a great moment. The train passed slowly, 20 cm from our bodies as we were all glued to the wall.

Slowly, the orange and red carriages left the market. Just seconds after the sellers got it all back, the market was again covered, protected from the burning sun.
I walked the train line among stalls of fruits, seafood, spices, cooked foods, fresh meats, dried fish. The scent was too strong, the air and light scarce, the heat and humidity horrible. I got dizzy and I was going to throw up. Badly. I’m not sensitive at all but I guess it was too much at that moment. My taxi driver saw me and directed me towards the exit, in a place where more fresh air and light was entering the covered tunnel. I got a cold green coconut and felt better instantly. It was Easter day that day. I got a photo of me sitting on the railway line, drinking coconut, among the stalls, vendors, travelers. And wearing a big smile.

– All good?

– Yes, thank you, a lovely day. And we drove back to the city.

Afternoon: temples and the parade

Wat Phra Chetuphon, close to the Grand Palace is the largest temple in Thailand, has 95 pagodas and the famous reclining Buddha statue, 45 /15 meters. This place was the primary school of the world famous Thai traditional massage.
I found some shade under a tree and sit there with a bottle of now warm water. It was unbreathably hot. I looked at the people and took some photos having the feeling that no photo can do justice to this beautiful place since all its beauty was in the details. A monk crossed the yard. A little girl was playing. I got courage to face the heat in the street and get back to my room, at the guesthouse.
Wat Traimit is a must see also, where world’s largest Buddha made of solid gold weighing 5.5 tons is. But I skipped that one, my brand was melting and was late already for an entry.
The air on the large boulevard was burning from the heat. I laughed thinking that this was by far the hottest day of my life. I still refer to extreme heat as Bangkok heat after that day of April 29th .
I saw something yellow. Then a lot of yellow like I was hallucinating yellow from the heat. I wasn’t. All people around were wearing yellow t-shirts. Lots of men in yellow were sitting on the hot asphalt. I remembered I saw them in that morning, from the taxi. The driver said something about a rehearsal for the coronation ceremony, King Vajiralongkorn or Rama X, who’s image is one of the very first things you see once you land in Thailand, cause it’s everywhere, was ascending the throne following his father’s death in 2016. The ceremony for the new king was planned to take place few days after, on May 4th, at The Grand Palace. I admired the thousands of orchids decorating the sides of the boulevard trying to figure out how they were placed there and resist the heat. One man in his 20s, in a military dark suit was standing by the street, in plain sun. His face was covered in sweat that was dripping down his neck. In spite of the natural darker color of his skin I could see he was red from the heat. This is the image that stayed in my mind about that majestic rehearsal that I got the chance to watch a bit later that evening.
I got to my room around 4PM, I felt I was dying of overheating. My heart was pumping fast. I turned the AC, drank water and laid on the bed in complete silence to cool down. An hour passed, hearing my heart slowly calming down.
When I felt better, I got outside again, I was curious to see what was going on with the parade. Thousands of people in yellow were now sitting on the pavement, on the boulevard.

I found 30cm free and sat down. A man and a teen girl smiled to me, looking proud of what was happening in front. I tried to share the excitement. The girl was staring, I realized she had mental disabilities. She took my hand then started playing with my hair. Her father tried to stop her. It was ok. It was a hot long day and we were sitting down together on the pavement, watching the parade in front.

Evening: unicorns and Chinatown

Unicorn Cafe in Bangkok was iconic in 2019. Unicorns were a trend back then, toys, prints, all. Some were obsessed, some of my friends too. I took a taxi and got there an hour before closing. I had a hot chocolate in the pinkest cutest place filled with unicorns in pastel colors and of all sizes.

I took a walk to Chinatown after, I got lost in its vibe, walking among street food stalls, restaurants, neon lights, tuk-tuks. I loved it. I had dinner by the street, watching all that rush from a high table, sitting on a high chair. I was revolted to read in the menu: fin soup. Two Chinese next to me ordered that.
As the night was gaining, I walked back to my accommodation, leaving behind the roam of the busy street with every step. Chinatown was noisy even at passed 11PM. After an hour long walk I was again in front of my door, again exhausted. I saw light under the door. I switch the key and push the door. I startled: a woman was inside my room, laid on the bed! I went straight to her:

– Who are you? What are you doing in my room?

She was pretty, petite and blinked fast and confused.

– I needed a bed for tonight, she replied with low voice.
I said nothing. I started thinking that I must have booked by mistake a bed instead of a room? I went to my bed, sit and checked my booking. 2 min later I snaped again:

– Aha, I have booked correctly, the entire room, not just a bed. I know there are 6 beds here but I paid for the whole room.
I realized all my stuff was now in order on my bed. I remembered I let it all spread all around the room, on 3 beds. I felt a bit uncomfortable but after all it was my room.

– My stuff was everywhere…

– I moved it there. I came late. I work in Bangkok. I will leave early in the morning, I go to my village. I needed a place to sleep and there was nothing and the lady…

– Aha, the lady!

– I took your thinks and place it on your bed…

– I’m sorry for my reaction, thank you, but I really paid for the whole room and you can imagine the surprise.
We continued to talk and I felt bad for making her feel so bad. Meanwhile I briefly looked around to calm down my paranoia, all my stuff was there, all the moneym my camera, all.
I called “the lady”, the crazy host. I was very nervous. She replied after a long time, very calm, listened to me and when I said I want to leave right away and get another room since she overbooked mine, she, even more calm, replied that I’m free to do as I please and wished me good night. It was both annoying and hilarious. It was 1am. I wanted to leave but in the same time I was in the room, AC was on, all my stuff on two beds now… and my new unwanted roommate seemed nice. So I did what was best, stayed.

I apologized again for making her feel like she invaded my room and we continued the talk. She was working in a restaurant in the city and finished very late that night, in the morning she was going home. All her things were in a nice order. I thought what a mess were mine…
So, without any approval needed, I shared my hijacked room that night. We talked until we both fall aseep. Before dawn I heard her leaving the room quiety.

Day 3:

I woke up determined to make a scandal. Even though my roommate the night before was so nice and I finally liked her, I was still pissed off with the scammer host. I took a shower in the shared and overheated bathroom and I met her downstairs. With the most candid smile she said good morning as if nothing had happened. My determination kind of vanished, I realized she’s a lunatic scammer. When I confronted her about overbooking my room, she said that the girl needed a bed for last night, it was late, she had no other free bed left so she thought I won’t mind since my room had 6 beds. I ended the subject, it was in vain with her. I was leaving later that night and asked her to check out and pay for my 2 nights stay. She left to check the cost of my reservation.

– It’s …..

– Sorry, how much?

I thought I didn’t hear her well, it was the equivalent of 150 euro. For those money at that moment in Bangkok I could have easly got a 4 even 5 stars hotel.
I went to her with the real cost shown on my phone, in my booking app, around 30 times cheaper.

– This is the cost of my reservation. I let the money on the table and left.

– Yes, thank you very much. Have a beautiful day, thank you, thank you…
I concluded she was out of her mind. A total new category of scamer.

Time flew that day between a walk during the day on Khaosan Road, a pad thai in Soi Rambuttri, a hidden gem area known as the spot for the best food in Bangkok, too me just too touristy, a tuk-tuk ride with a driver making weird pig noises all the way to Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan or better just Wat Arun, a white gorgeous Buddhist temple in the Bangkok Yai district, situated on Thonburi, on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River.

Again, all photos were lame and did -1000 justice to the place. I crossed the river at blue hour, as the Wat Arun was shinning like a lighted diamond.
I ended the day with pad thai, again. The world famed Raan Jay Fai place, Thailand’s only Michelin-starred street-food, was closed that evening. Jay Fai, the cook, is famous for its crab omelet, which costs around 1,200 baht, $33. I didn’t know that then. I ended up next, at Leung Pha and it was good for both me and by budget.

Leaving Bangkok

The night bus to Siem Reap was at midnight. At 23:30 I was in front of McDonalds on Khaosan Road. But Bangkok was not done with me yet. After 30 min of waiting, no one came. I started panicking. Then I started asking. I found out that there was a second McDonalds at the other end of Khaosan Road. 5 minutes before midnight and 10 minutes before the bus departure time a was running with my large suitcase trying to get through wat has become at that hour an open air party, with people drinking, laughing and dancing. It would have been funny if I wasn’t desperate. I got to the other damn McDo. I wait, nothing. I ask a guy from the security and he said they were there minutes before and left. I had a number in my reservation and I beg him to call. My heart was exploding as he talks on the phone when someone finally answered. A few seconds after a guy arrives with a motorbike to take me to the bus. But my luggage is too big. We manage an improvisation and he drives like crazy. I arrive to the bus and I realized they had stopped the bus and waited for me. I felt so ashamed. In my last seconds in Bangkok I ran to the guy and insisted that he takes money for the saving ride. He refuses, I insist. I’m in the bus, all sweating and breathing fast, apologizing for the situation. And off I am for Cambodia, at the end of a night ride.
About two weeks later, in Sapa, Vietman.

– I hated Bangkok, OMG, it’s horrible. Lots of “mee too” followed…

– How about you?

– I loved it, great city, had a great time, I said, chewing on a piece of bún chả.

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; It should change you.

Anthony Bourdain