Back to writing down memories…

I got so much to say about these last 2 years that I kept postponing the moment when I let all the words that are now wrapping memories to finally lay down on white.

Trips during the pandemic, trips after the pandemic and the multiple levels of chaos that followed. The bonanza of traveling in 2016-2019, those golden years, are sweet memories. Many things have changed. We all have changed. But even if The World is going nuts with every day, the pleasure of seeing new and beautiful places remains.

I should just restart from where I stopped: Kenya, Diani Beach, September 2019…

Ocean safari on Diani Beach, Kenya

The sea spider flipped over in his palm. Was huge, covering his whole palm.

– See, this means the water will come back soon, the fishermen know this sign…My father taught me…

I was so distracted by all the creatures that can be seen while walking on the bottom of the ocean during the low tide, 50-60 meters far from the shore. All sizes of octopus, one stone fish, a few star fish, sea cucumbers, plenty of crabs, huge sea urchins, all got trapped in small water wholes, now hiding between rocks, prisoners of the low tide, all waiting for the rescue brought by the high tide waters.

I heard like in a dream my occasional guide, a guy I just met earlier on the beach and who suggested to have an “ocean safari”- a walk on the bottom of the Indian Ocean that was only possible in the mornings there, during low tide. He proposed to help me discover a lot of marine creatures that “you never saw in your life” and were now so easy to spot… And indeed, the one hour walk was fantastic…

– Ok, I leave now, don’t stay long. Don’t staaay loooong….

His voice vanished in the sound of the waves hitting the reef, a new shore created by the low tide, about 20m in the front. The beach was far, a white line on the opposite side.

–  I won’t… I reply automatically and I continued my exploration of small water wholes hiding living wonders of the ocean. I was fascinated.

I was walking on the bottom of the ocean, on white sand covered by sea grass, with stripes drawn by the waves. It felt unreal.

I wanted to take a video. I started from the horizon line of the waves and all the way around the reef, my new playground and finally pointed the camera towards the shore. I stopped suddenly. I thought I’m not seeing well. Water was coming. Was filling rapidly like a violent river the space between the area where I was and the beach, leaving me stranded on a small island that was disappearing with every second. First thought was of total panic. I had my phone, so swimming was not an option. My photos…Even if I had to swim, ocean currents away from the shore, at high tide, are strong.

I started running towards the shore that seemed so far now. In a few meters my feet were in the water, and the level was growing with every step. I was surrounded instantly, a river of currents reached me and I hold my phone in one hand up in the air. I was afraid and crazy scenarios got to my mind…

All my photos, the safari, the night safari, the flamingoes, the lions…all Kenya. My precious memories! I looked around and I was all alone. Then it hit me: what if I’m drowning!

I thought that if I’ll soon be forced to swim, as water will be way to deep to continue to walk, I’ll carry the phone in my mouth. Or fix it in my hair bun. Desperate people have desperate ideas… Water was getting deeper and deeper and stronger, I used one hand to keep balance. I was wearing flip flops and ran on rocks filled with sea urchins as water now reached my chest…

The day before, Amboseli Park

Kilimanjaro white peak rising high above the golden savannah that morning was an unforgettable sight. After 9am it was already gone behind the clouds. I washed my hair after that crazy safari the night before. I understood how dusty that ride was when I saw our van, in the morning. It was completely covered in a thick layer of beige powder, outside and inside. Richard our driver was struggling to clean it.

The car was repaired, cleaned to a decent level and off we were to a new safari day. Amboseli looked different from Mara, greener. Even the wildebeests look different, with darker shades of brown and quite fat.

The playground for all breathing wildlife in Amboseli was a widespread swamp. All creatures gathered there. Us included.

At noon we had our box lunch on a high point offering fantastic top views on the park.

When we left, we drove by a woman riding a jeep. She stopped and talked to Richard, our driver.

– I know everybody. He turned to us, smiling, as this was my line every time we met someone and he always proved to know each person. She was a conservationist involved in projects protecting elephants and rhinos. The news were good: they are now thriving in Amboseli, protected by poachers while photographed by thousands of tourists.

We saw a cheetah enjoying his meal, an unfortunate impala. Richard was intrigued how come we’ve missed it when we first passed by that bush he was hiding in and how come my eyesight that proved to be great for the last 7 days of safari have failed us this time.

– You didn’t see it! How come! It was there…

We then watched it getting up from the “crime scene” with a round belly and slow moves, passing by a heard of impalas that were all watching it carefully. They all saw he had a meal so no chase for the next 4-5 days.

A male elephant with huge tusks was enjoying an afternoon spa time, throwing dust on its back, creating a fantastic sight. He came very close to us, moving its huge ears. Richard wanted to start the engine but in the end there were no signs of aggression and we remained. It’s amazing how Richard knows their body language. After a few minutes, the elephant left, heading towards a young male in the horizon.

We left and after a few minutes drive in the hot dusty afternoon, Richard stopped the van. I knew why, I saw them too. One of the Chinese women in the van asked why we stopped. Richard just raised his hand, pointing his finger to the horizon.

In a cloud of dust and hot air from the midday heat, grey silhouettes were moving towards us. The long line was crossing the savannah. We waited. They approached keeping the rhythm. 24 elephants, mothers and babies lead by the matriarch, the oldest and most experienced one. Absolute silence… What a bliss to see that! Slowly they crossed the road a few meters from us and headed towards… of course, that swamp. Bath time. This was one of the most impressive scene I’ve witnessed in Africa.

Back to Diani Beach

With my heart beating and my mind filled with dramatic scenarios, running towards the shore in chest deep water, stepping on rocks, on sand, trying to avoid the black areas – sea urchins. I saw on my right a fisherman with a few octopus in his hand. Earlier it was another trying to get one from behind a rock. He was using a long needle, keep pushing is under the rock as the poor octopus covered his hand with its tentacles and finally vanished under the rock. I was happy. I love them too much to see them as food.

I saw people on the beach. I don’t think they saw how desperate I was. A few more steps and the water started to decrease. I was reaching the shore, the currents were still strong but as they now reached my knees, I jumped on the sand. I was ok. My phone was ok, even if all my clothes were drenched and water was flowing from me.

I got back to the resort where I had breakfast that morning. I was so relieved I was ok, back on land. The ocean was now conquering the last surface of the island formed during the tide. So, all the creatures were safe now.

I felt an itch as I was checking the level of damage on my wet wallet. I was all red. I left the restaurant without having any sunscreen on. Almost two hours in the open sun got me badly sun burnt.

The next day I took a tour to Wasini island. We visited a local village, we got on bord of an Arabic dhow and cruise to Kisite Marine Park. We met dolphins on the way. I did some snorkeling. I never saw corals that big, 1-2m wide. I was looking for a clown fish: Nemo. That was my quest but I didn’t manage to see one though I did saw anemonas, the algae where they live.

On the way back the people in the boat sang and danced African music. Our guide was great and funny, trying to make me and a guy from South Africa realize we were in love.

We had a delicious lunch on the island: fresh fish, coconut rice (best rice in my life up till now) and casava. I had an obsession to this new dish for me, casava and the guide brought me a whole plate.

– Should I pick you up later? Let’s go out!

Jaffa, my driver to the tour came with this proposal. I gave him my number.

7:30PM

Going out with a guy I barely knew, in Diani Beach, a place known for being unsafe, where tourists kidnappings happened and small crime was the norm… I didn’t know what to do, to go or stay inside, safe, but miss a night out… when I got the text message: I’m outside.

A few minutes later the gates opened. The resort was surrounded by a 3m tall wall and the entrance had 24h armed guardians that were checking every entrance and exit.

I left the resort for a night out in Diani beach with my new friend Jaffa. I was stressed.

We first went to a beach bar, I got a dinner there. Fish, of course. Around a pool table, a blonde girl was playing with a few locals. Slow music, waves, lights on the beach. It was beautiful.

When we left to the car we crossed a dark parking. I was looking around very strain. I heard steps behind me and I jumped. That’s it! I’m being kidnapped! It was all planned! My crazy paranoid mind. It was just someone passing, Jaffa smiled and opened the door. I don’t think he had any idea about what was going on in my mind at the beginning at that evening.

Next we stopped at Tandoori Bar, the hot spot of nightlife in Diani. I ordered Stoney, ginger beer, for me and beer for Jaffa and I insisted to pay, as he was driving. All my crazy thoughts vanished. Though I think he liked me, it was nothing but a night out between friends. We talked about dolphins, his boat, his family, my family, about Diani and Mombasa, about how unsafe these places are but mostly about how amazing Kenya is. The very few tourists around were either older man with too young Kenyan girls and a few older ladies with, also young, Kenyan guys.

– I don’t want my sister to be like this, with one of these guys, he told me at one point. I work hard so she can stay in school and have a good life.

I got back to the hotel safe and sound and beyond all, very happy and grateful for such a great night.

It was so beautiful, the white villas with large terraces build by the pools in the middle. The apartment was huge and the bed in the middle with a mosquito nest. For about 30 euro per night this was heaven.  

A light breeze from the beach blew the curtains in the air. I went out to the beach, it was too beautiful to sleep.

– Hello my friend!

As in every night, he was there. William was guarding the beach from 7pm till 7am. Tall, well built, with grey hair and a contagious healthy laugh. I bought two Stoney. I had an obsession for this drink.

– Cheers! What a lovely night, my friend!

We talked for a long time, in the moon light, watching the waves leaving the beach as a new low tide was coming and a cat struggling to catch one of the crabs that were vanishing in the sand every single time she got closer.  

The next evening I came to the beach to say good bye to my friend. Jaffa drove me to the airport. We board the ferry singing Shape of you and eating baobab seeds candies, a local delicious treat.

Till next time, Nairobi!

Rachel, whom I met online and organized all my safari trip saved the last day to spend it together in Nirobi. Three guys, friends of hers, joined us. We had a wonderful time feeding the giraffes at Langata Giraffe Centre, hearing the stories of orphan baby elephants at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, having lunch and long walks around the city. In one souvenir shop I found a similar bracelet to the one I bought from the son of the tribe’s chief in Masai Mara. Identical, made of copper, only 20 times cheaper.

My last photo in Kenya is on top of Nairobi Tower, sitting down in a circle with Rachel and the guys.

 What a story Kenya was! What a dream! What a beautiful place!